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Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of Mountaineering's Most Controversial and Mysterious Disasters

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Description

Winner of the 2007 Banff Mountain Festival Book Awards Grand Prize (The Phyllis & Don Munday Award): "A riveting account of a long-ago mountaineering disaster."—Time
In 1967, seven young men, members of a twelve-man expedition led by twenty-four-year-old Joe Wilcox, were stranded on Alaska's Mount McKinley in a vicious arctic storm. All seven perished on what remains the most tragic expedition in American climbing history. Revisiting the event in the tradition of Norman Maclean's Young Men and Fire, James M. Tabor uncovers elements of controversy, finger-pointing, and cover-up that combine to make this disaster unlike any other.

Publishers Weekly Review

May 07, 2007 – Tabor's exhaustive look at the doomed 1967 expedition to scale Alaska's Mt. McKinley is an often gripping, detailed account of the infamous climb that remains controversial. Only five of the 12-man team survived the ascent to the 20,320-foot summit, making it one of the deadliest mountaineering disasters in North America. The journey was fraught with tension from the beginning: the National Park Service (NPS) required a group of nine men, led by Joe Wilcox, to merge with a three-member party of Coloradoans, led by Howard Snyder. Wilcox and Snyder clashed almost immediately. Both men survived and went on to retell the trip in books: Snyder in his 1973 version that mostly blamed Wilcox's leadership; Wilcox's account in 1981 cited an overpowering storm as the culprit in the deaths. Tabor (who hosted PBS's Great Outdoors) shows that the NPS was very slow to react and might have saved the climbers with quicker response. His writing about the brutal difficulties of climbing Mt. McKinley in subfreezing temperatures with hurricane-like wind in blizzard conditions is breathtaking, although he lapses into minutiae and repeats details, particularly regarding the accident's investigation. His profiles of the expedition's survivors 40 years later make for a strong conclusion to the book.

Customer Reviews

Could not put it down

This wonderful book takes a 40 year old mountaineering tragedy cloaked in controversy and settles the score once and for all. Rather than coming to conclusions and beating the reader over the head with them, the author painstakingly gathers all the evidence available from every source imaginable and lays it out. Each player in the 1967 Denali tragedy is portrayed meticulously, creating a fundamental connection with the characters that is rare in this genre. The story of the expedition itself is so incredibly riveting that it could stand alone; but combined with the author's courtroom attorney approach to the evidence it becomes impossible to put down. Part historical narrative, part investigative reporting, part thriller, this book does not just entertain; it sets the record straight on a tragedy that had been unfairly blamed on the expedition leader for 40 years. Like a modern day DNA test for an innocent prison inmate, this book frees the expedition leader from the shackles of the flawed analyses, biased investigations and cover-your-backside mentality that so characterized the early reactions to the disaster. I give this book 5 stars.

Forever on the Mountain: The Truth Behind One of Mountaineering's Most Controversial and Mysterious Disasters
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  • $12.99
  • Available on iPhone, iPad, iPod touch, and Mac.
  • Category: Mountaineering
  • Published: Jun 17, 2008
  • Publisher: W. W. Norton & Company
  • Seller: W. W. Norton
  • Print Length: 432 Pages
  • Language: English
  • Requirements: To view this book, you must have an iOS device with iBooks 1.3.1 or later and iOS 4.3.3 or later, or a Mac with iBooks 1.0 or later and OS X 10.9 or later.

Customer Ratings