Flying Discs & Disc Golf

In other words, Frisbee and variants!

This thing is really a work in progress. I have attempts at explaining flight characteristics and aerodynamics mixed up with an introduction to disc golfing, mixed up with clues on how to throw better, find the rules, and a whole bunch of other things. If you find something brain-dead, tell me what is wrong, and where I can look to learn more and make a better presentation on things such as the aerodynamics or flight characteristics. Or anything else for that matter!

My experiences with Flying Discs

I enjoyed frisbee for a long time, but I just couldn't get the range and accuracy my friends would get with the same discs. It's like my hand won't grab them right to release and spin them nicely.

Then ... I discovered the Aerobie, and that solved the problem. I could throw it as well as my friends could, and it would go where I wanted it to go, and do what I wanted it to do. My fingers can grab the rim and get nice release on it, and also flick it -- it just fits my hand ok. Well, and the things fly like an airplane!

The only downside of an Aerobie is that it doesn't float, and I've lost a few into nearby ponds and lakes. Other than that, I have a huge pile of the things, as well as the boomerang Aerobie, the Dogobie (for the dogs to play with), and even some Aerobie flying and golf discs!

In August 2010, Jeff invited me out to try Disc Golf, as a result of a conversation about beer. Amy was discing that day too, and loaned me her spare driver to play with. Man, that is fun! Those guys throw wicked good, it was amazing to see the range and accuracy they exhibited. I just worked on shorter throws that would let me keep control.... those things don't fly like my Aerobie, and the distance is a lot harder to get. I was a couple of strokes over on every hole but one, and I had a lot of fun!

I didn't have any discs, but I was told to check with Amanda, who has a a huge collection, for a set to try out. Amanda and she tols me not to bother with a set (Driver, Wedge, Putter), but just to use a driver to start with to get used with using it. She dug out a set of two drivers, and a nice mid-range (a Shark) ... which I get along with almost as well as I do with the Aerobies! Besides the Shark, there is a Competition Orc, and another Innova driver that isn't labeled for type. I tuned the Orc slightly so it flies straight (just like I tune the Aerobie), and that lets me put it where I want to ... except now it won't hook at the end of travel for left-hand courses (that double-edge sword I mentioned earlier about flight characteristics).

Miscellaneous Links

Innova has a bunch of intro material, grip positions, and throwing guides on their web sigt.

Disc Craft has a number of great instructional videos available on YouTube. They discuss Throwing, Driving, Putting, Improving your skills, choosing shots, and other great topics.

Disc Golf

I'd heard about disc golf for years, but had completely ignored it -- sending frisbees flying down golf courses seemed totally boring. Along with all the other things that they have, club houses, expensive drinks, golf carts, etc. Well -- that's not what the sport is about at all. It isn't golf with disc, but rather an entirely different sport, more like a combination of hiking and frisbee. It requires skill, is fun to play by yourself or with others, and you get a great workout playing it! It is even possible for players of vastly different levels to play together and not slow the game.

So, what is Disc Golf??? Put simply, it is a sport where you throw golf discs at a target, starting from a tee pad.

The individual Disc Golf Holes are typically layed out on an 18 hole Disc Golf Course. Sometimes the course can be a dedicated golfing-only area, other times you can be playing disc golf in the middle of a busy park with other sports going on.

The target is interesting. It is a pole, on which is mounted a basket about 2-1/2 feet from the top. The target has a catcher assembly made of chains, sorta like a curtain, which hangs from an upper rim at the top of the target. The disc can land directly in the target basket, or it can hit the chains which catch the disk, and most of the time drop it into the basket. So you can drop the disk into the basket, fly the disc into the basket, or fly the disc into the catcher chains. The pole makes a certain tone if/when a disc hits it, and you can also hear the rattling of the disc striking the chains.

The tee pad is about the size of two squares of a normal sidewalk in the USA. It is typically made from concrete or rubber, but can be gravel or any surface.

The Disc Golf course shares many name aspects and functions of a golf course. There is a tee area, fairway, green, and hazards. Unlike a conventional golf course, a Disc Golf course can be a lot more interesting. They often go up and down hill-sides, are littered with trees in the middle of the fairway, bushes, and other obstructions. This is what makes disc golf great fun -- it takes a lot of effort and skill to fly a disk all the way from the tee pad to the target through an obstacle course!

The green in disc golf is just a 30 foot circle around the catcher, in which some more strict rules to throwing can apply. Jeff often jokes with me the that the green should be called the brown -- at the park we play in, it is often just dirt around the target.

How do you learn to disc golf?

The easiest way is to find someone you know who disc golfs, and have them take you to a course and show you how everything works.

BTW, my notes here aren't some set-in-stone thing; they are notes from how I've learned to golf, with the discs available to me, and they seem to make sense. There is no right way, but there are many ways, this is something that seems to work. For example, Amy has drivers and a putter, and only recently added a midrange disc in. Her putting is really good because she has been using a dedicated putter for longer.

For an initial disk, everyone recommends a driver. Try a medium fairway driver like an Innova Leopard -- it is a moderate speed driver which flies straight and is reasonably controllable. Make sure that someone shows you the Power Grip to use when throwing it, and just work on controlled, shorter, straight drives. It will keep you out of the rough, and give you some good habits. You can drive, approach, and putt with a good driver. Having just one disc will let you get used to it, and how to throw a driver.

On the other hand, I have a slightly different recommendation for starting disc golfers who are really familiar with frisbees and Aerobies and shoot those with precision. Try a medium range disc instead -- something like an Innova Shark. It can be thrown with the traditional frisbee Fan Grip, and it is about as controllable as a frisbee or Aerobie. Keep on working on the same things as mentioned above. This lets you get discing sooner using existing skills. Then you can get a driver such as the Leopard mentioned above, and learn how to drive.

Whichever you start with (Driver, Medium Range), once you are shooting well with it, get the other and become good with it too. Get a midrange (such as the shark) that is also a good putter; many midrange discs don't putt well.

You don't need a putter. A good mid-range disc will suffice for a long time. The only reason I even have a putter is that Jeff loaned me his so he would try a new one out. The big thing I see about a putter compared to a mid-range disc is that it slows down and stalls a lot faster, instead of wanting to go for distance. This means it wants to drop down around the target, instead of floating 30 feet past it! That won't matter initially, because you won't be putting long distances.

What equipment will you need?

You can get by with just borrowing a friend's disc. If you get a disc, it only costs around $12, and you'll be set for a long time of having fun and developing skills.

That being said, there are some simple items which make disc golf a lot more enjoyable. Most of these are common sense, but better to be prepared than not have fun:

Learning Disc Golf

Go out with a friend who disc golfs and is working on being better. There is a good chance that they can show you how to improve your game. Nothing substitutes for someone who has a few years of experience and is working on making their game even better.

Disc Craft has a number of great instructional videos available on YouTube. They discuss Throwing, Driving, Putting, Improving your skills, choosing shots, and other great topics. In particular, they have a How to Throw video, and another Putting Basics video which will both put you way ahead on learning disc golf skills. Their video on Getting out of Trouble helps refine your knowledge of disc golf lie of the disc rules -- and good tips for fixing that unfortunate behind-a-tree situation.

Innova has some instructional videos, but the biggest benefits they have for the starting player an excellent FAQ on Disc Golf, and quality Charts on Throwing Technique, Grips, and Footwork. Once you start having questions on technique and how to do certain things, they have some really good video material. Dave Dunipace put together some videos on the details and problems of some areas which are hard to improve without detailed info. If you are frustrated throwing sidearm, the video Tips on Driving Sidearm will help out the mechanics and details of that throw. Problems putting (versus throwing) the disc? Check out both Putting - Wrist Action to understand the action of the wrist when putting, and Snake Strike Putt to help with the rhythm and release point of the putt. Having consistency problems driving now that you are using a more powerful throwing technique -- even when you aren't putting full power into your drive? Then view Importance of Grip to find out the elements of holding the disc correctly for more powerful throws!

Ace Runners has one of the best youtube videos that I've seen -- it is a Disc Golf Overview Tutorial, introducing new players to the game of Disc Golf. They have many technique videos as well, but one the above 4 minute video is a great introduction to the game and its rules. They also have some forehand and backhand throwing technique videos that I should perhaps list here.

The Disc Golf Association has a nice web section on Disc Golf Education, which includes articles on the game, a book by Ed Headrick (disc golf pioneer) on Throws & Strategy of Tournament Play, which includes putting, approach, and tee-off sections, as well as issues about the mental part of the game. Don't let the title frighten you away -- it includes all the basic info you need to learn to be a disc golfer! They also have a nice Guide to Disc Golf Rules which is a great accompaniment to the Ace Runners OverviewVideo, and the Disc Craft Getting out of Trouble video.

The PDGA has a compact Guide to Disc Golf from the PDGA. It's mostly hype and double-speak, but it is also a different introduction to the world of disc golfing.

JoeVeen and Dan Beto have a great video on progressive driving skills. The video Disc Golf Tips and Technique: Driving really does a nice job of starting you off with good simple procedures, and then giving you incremental changes you can use. This covers throwing action, follow through, and foot work. If you've looked at the other sources of info (Discraft videos, the Disc Golf Review Articles, Innova's charts & notes), this puts a lot of that in perspective.

Mr Kitten & ExpertVillage have a good video on setting up for the footwork of the disc golf drive -- the X-Step. Their video How to play Disc Golf: the X-Step is a nice demonstration on how to do the footwork properly. One of the biggest things I saw from this is that the footwork isn't this rush to release the disc, it is totally controlled legwork, more of a fast sideways walk, to get to the point where you release the disc.

Disc Golf Resources

Equipment -- Manufacturers & Suppliers

I'll admit I love my Aerobie flying rings. I just can't figure out how in the world they want their disc golf disc to work! How can a company that produces such excellent things (aka everything else they make) produce hard to use golf discs???? Ok, well, I'm getting a better idea on that, I need to write a section on the Aerobie discs so you can figure out who they are for and what they can be used for! I will say until I do that, that when you can throw them correctly, they are amazing in their own ways. Still -- not an Aerobie flying ring!

Organizations & Publications

Disc Stability Terminology

Flying Disc stability comes from a relationship of spin, angular momentum and speed of flight. Faster spin & more weight creates more angular momentum. The higher AM creates gyroscopic forces which offset the aerodynamic forces acting on the disc, and create a disc which will fly straight, or turn. I'll just call them gyroscopic forces.

Most terms refer to a thrown disc with a clock-wise (CW) rotation. That is from a typical RHBH (right-hand back-hand) throw -- or from a LHFH (left-hand fore-hand) throw. If you throw RHFH (right-hand fore-hand) or LHBH, the direction of rotation will be reversed (CCW), and the effects will reverse too. In other words, you'll need to change left->right and right->left in all the following discussion.

Discs have an initial high-speed portion of their flight, and as they slow down at the end they will reach the later low-speed portion of their flight. The stability needed for one flight regime will different from the stability needed for another flight speed ... and so the disc will turn instead of going straight. I like the Aerobie, I can tune them so they go straight the entire distance; however, what if you want them to hook L/R at the end of flight for a twisted course, or curve L/R during the high speed portion for a curved fairway? The curves have a reason, and a straight-flying disc will need more throws on a given course.

One thing to remember is that all discs will turn left as they slow down at the end of their flight. The speed is slow, but the spin is about the same, and the gyro forces over-power the aero forces. XXXX no -- move this to the aero page too. I think AOA increases, CP moves forward, larger pitch-up moment, which causes the left turn at end of flight due to GP.

I've also included an explanation of Pitch and Bank. You won't find this in the common disc literature. I'm a pilot, and I'm going to use aerodynamics terms every once in a while.

A disc's Stability is its resistance to rolling right in flight.
All discs will fade to the left (roll left) at the end of the flight as the disc speed (airspeed) decreases. In other words, this happens during the final low-speed phase of flight. A disc that is more stable (over-stable) will hook more than a disc with less stability (under-stable).
High-Speed Turn
The golf disc has about three phases of flight, an initial high-speed portion, an intermediate portion, and then a final low-speed portion. During the high speed portion of its flight, a disc exhibits certain turning characteristics (based on its design). It may go straight, or crank left or right, it all depends on the design of the disc. Once the disc slows a bit, these initial high-speed turns stop, and the disc will continue more or less straight -- or at the same hyzer/bank angle the disc developed during the high-speed portion of its flight.
Disc remains level & flies straight for most of flight.
Disc turns right during the high-speed portion of the flight. These types of discs are more sensitive to speed, and will usually flip to stable or over-stable at low speeds.
Disc turns left during both high-speed and low-speed portions of the flight.
Hyzer Angle
This is the Left/Right bank or roll angle of the disc at release. A disc has Hyzer when the outside or left edge of the disc is lower than the right. The wing of the disc is lower than the other part of the disc. See bank -- all angles are relative to the real horizon or the local gravity vector.
Anhyzer Angle
Like Anhedral versus Dihedral -- the opposite kind of term. A disc has Anhyzer when the outside or left edge of the disc is higher than the right. The wing of the disc is higher than the other part of the disc.
Nose Angle
The Nose Angle of a disc is the up/down pitch of the disc relative to the real horizon. Unlike the bank/hyzer angles, this angle can also be relative to the actual terrain -- since you want the disc to fly with respect to a slope of terrain, not necessarily with respect to the point/height that you let it fly from!
People refer to the outside (away from the hand) or left portion of the disc as the wing. From a physics aspect, the wing is the part of the disk that is rotating in the direction of flight. For a RHBH throw, the left portion of the disc is the wing.
Flight Plate
The Flight Plate of a disc is the flat part at the top of the disc which forms the aerodynamic surface. An Aerobie doesn't have a traditional flight plate, it is all in the rim. Typically the thumb rests on the flight plate for a conventional throw.
The rim of the disc is the outside edge which drops down from the flight plate. It serves three purposes. One, the outside shape contributes to the flight characteristics and stability characteristics of the disk. Two, the inside of the rim provides a gripping surface for your fingers so they can hold the disc until you want to release it. Three, the mass of the rim keeps the disc spinning nicely during flight. An Aerobie has all of its mass in the rim, and that is why it is so easy to spin it properly. A simple view of the location of the edge of the rim can help determine how a disc might fly -- A Higher edge creates a disc that is more stable; A Lower edge creates a disc that is less stable. A driver has vertical inside rim that you grip to hold the disc properly.
The pitch of a disc is its forward/aft angle with respect to the local horizon. A positive pitch points the disc nose-up up to the sky, and a negative pitch points it nose-down toward the ground. Just like bank, pitch is relative to the local gravity vector ... because it interacts with where lift is developed on the disc and the resulting change in flight path ... due to gravity!
The bank of a disc is its left/right angle with respect to the local horizon and its' forward motion. A level bank has the disc wings level. A left bank, with the left side of the disc lower than the right side (a Hyzer angle). would cause the disc to turn left. A right bank , with right side of the disc lower than the left (a Anhyzer angle) would cause the disc to turn right.

Flying Disc Aerodynamics

This is a work in progress which is so long and weird as I figure it out, that I've moved it to its own page on Flyng Disc Aerodynamics.

DON'T BOTHER reading that just now. I mean you can, but I've been learning more about it all, and I have to find some time to put together everything I know so that you (and I) can understand it way better

Random Notes

Disc Types

The truth is that you can use any disc where it happens to work.

Another way of looking at the disc categories is that they go from fast to slow -- because you need more control, and less range with a putter than you do from a distance driver.




Throwing Problems

I've gathered a little info from people I've learned from, played with, and from videos and web pages. This is more for "what's going on" type info, I don't have links to solid info for any of these, it is my summary of all of the above. If it is wrong -- please tell me so I can put out better info!

One thing that really helps out is doing accurate practice on a practice field. Aim for a specific location, and fire the disc off at it. See what goes wrong, and try again. You can make mistakes without losing your disc.

I've been finding recently that I need to change my aim strategy when using the more powerful whip throw with the entire body -- hips leading shoulders, shoulders pulling the arm around, and then the forearm whipping out, and finally the wrist flicking & releasing the disc. Without the aim change, the disc tends to go wicked right for me. Using this strategy, I think they way to fix it is to use the jeans back pocket toward the target aiming strategy. Either that, or a more controlled release of the disc in the throw is needed.

What disc to use in certain wind conditions

So this is what I think is going on, and it seems to match the conventional disc recommendations. In other words, these are my Theories of what is going on . Time will tell if these are on the correct track ... or not.


Throwing upwind (into a headwind) creates disc control problems. What is going on here is that your throw is going to be at a normal speed. What then happens is that the disc's airspeed is higher than normal due to the headwind. The higher airspeed causes the aerodynamic forces to overcome the normal gyro counter-balancing forces on the disc. This makes the disc fly at a higher airspeed than normal, and also causes the disc to become less stable, or more unstable.

What this all means, is that you need an overstable disc when throwing into a headwind to give the resulting throw stable flight characteristics. OR try throwing a higher-speed rated disc so it will want to fly like it wants to with the throw you can't give it normally. If you look at a Innova Disc selection chart, this means that when you are throwing into a headwind, the disc will change its stability to the right of where it is.


Vice-versa, a tail-wind will result in slower airspeed for the same throw, gyro forces will overcome aero forces, and the disc will become more stable. In theory, that means that you should throw an understable disc for downwind flights to result in a stable result. Yes, the disc may move left on the Innnova chart in these conditions.

However, some actual test throws seem to indicate that a down-wind throw seems to fly with more stable-ness (aka it goes straight).

Left CrossWind

A wind from the left (a left x-wind) causes the disc to see more lift on the left or wing side of the disc. This causes the disc to want to bank to the right, or become more under-stable In other words, throwing with a left cross-wind will cause understable flight results. It seems that even a hyzer release will result in right turning flight as the lift will roll the disc right. So, I think you need to throw a more over-stable disc in these conditions to result in a stable flight path.

My next experiment should be to try a downward-pitched throw in these conditions to see if that helps with the tendencies.

Right CrossWind

My observations of flight in right X-wind is that the disc is easier to keep stable, and that it also seems to help the disc fly a longer distance for a given throw. The disc seems to keep its natural stability.

I think what is going on is that the airflow causes the right (non-wing) side of the disc to create additional lift compared to normal, and perhaps a slight reduction of left-side lift. This reduces the normal gyroscopic precession forces that would pitch the disc, and I think the resulting system basically has less forces acting on it and less drag, and so the disc just flies more efficiently.

I've also noticed a reduction in left fade with these throws, perhaps due to lift being better balanced across the disc so it wants to stay level instead of fading in a gyro/aero force battle at the end.

Disc Weight

The weight of two other identical disks will affect the stability and the flight path of a disc.

A lighter disc is less stable (more under stable) than a heaver disc of the same exact mold. Lighter discs will hold a line or go right more. Conversely, a heavier disk is more stable than a lighter one and will turn left more.

The other comment people make about weight is to try a lighter disc when you have less power, so the disc will fly further. The flip side is that a ilghter disc is more difficult to control, so ... try it out and see if it works. I have a 150g driver that I get some excellent drives with, and a even lighter 146g mid-range that is my go-to disc when I have to make radical curving approaches or putts. And sometimes the disc is just all over the place :)

Disk Shape

The shape the flight plate of two otherwise identical disks also affects their stability. A more flat-topped disc will be more stable (more over-stable). A more dome-topped disc will be less stable (more under-stable).

The other effect is that the dome-topped disc is slightly more aerodynamic and will have more glide. I'm guessing this is due to the airflow staying attached better, reducing drag as AOA increases.

I've noticed this difference between an older Aviar that I have and a newer one. Fortunately they seem to throw the same at the ranges I use.

What this doesn't address

Is what the disc moving in the resulting airmass wants to do. The airmass pushes the disc in the direction the airmass moves. Nor does it address things like throwing the disc with a tailwind will result in the disc picking up some speed from the airmass trying to accelerate it.

A faster disc (thrown with more power) will be less affected by wind than a slower disc, for two reasons. First, because it is in the air for a shorter period of time, and will be upset for less time. Second, because the percentage speed change the disc sees is less than a slower disc.

In other words, all this is complex and the detailed explanation should be moved to another section. I should read some papers on flying disc aerodynamics, and I should read what experienced disc golfers recommend for how to throw discs in various conditions instead of trying to understand how things work based on what I see. I have fun trying to understand, none-the-less!

Simple Recommendations???

Use a more over-stable disc when throwing into head-winds and left-cross winds. Use a faster disc when throwing into head-wind situations. Use Hyzer in those situations to help a bit, but it isn't enough with the L xwind due to continuous R disc roll.

New notes to take into account

Nose Down pitch angles make a disk fly more understable.

Nose Up pitch angles make a disk fly more overstable.

With hyzer on a disk, nose-down flight line is to left of center, and nose-up flight lines is to the right of center. And that reverses for anhyzer .. but wait, it seems backwards?!?!?

XXX so what is happening that I'm releasing my drivers with some AnHyzer & some nose-down pitch at the same time by accident, and that is what is getting my really cool drive on occasion. Hmm. Now how to separate the two!

Innova Flight Ratings System

Innova uses a 4 number Flight Ratings System to characterize their discs. The 4 numbers in order are -- Speed, Glide, Turn, and Fade. All assume a RHBH throw for (CW) rotation purposes. Reverse for CCW throws.

More detail can be found at the Innova web site. One thing they note is that don't use the numbers to describe a disc's flight path -- but to compare relative flight paths between discs.

Innova also has disc comparison charts for Distance and Fairway Drivers and Mid-Range and Putters to let you easily see where you are and what a different disc might do for you.

Ratings versus Reality

The speed rating of the disc does not imply how far the disc will travel. What it does tell you is how fast that disc needs to fly to operate correctly, with correct aerodynamic versus gyroscopic balance. Throw the disc slower, it won't fly like you think it will. Throw it faster, ... you get the idea! The flip side of this is that that a higher speed disc requires more power to throw it -- for a given distance traveled. If you don't have the power, a lower speed disc may give you greater distance on the throw.

Theoretically, a higher speed disc should work better in a up-wind throw, since it is traveling at a higher airspeed. And a lower speed disc should work better down-wind. However, I've had some funny results. I can get my hi-speed Orc to drive downwind way better than I can get it to drive up-wind. The lower-speed Shark can give me great up-wind drives.

This may be because I'm not putting the correct rotation on the disc for the speed it is rated at ... and my rotation matches the speed I'm throwing it at in these wind conditions.

The other cool thing is that if you release a disc at a speed different from what it is designed for ... you can make it change its flight path! For example, take a stable midrange disc and release it at a higher speed. The aero/gyro force balance will have aero winning, and the disc will turn right (understable) during the initial portion of its flight. Then, as it slows it will return to its normal stable state, and straighten out. Finally, as it fades it will turn left and die. Congratulations, you've just managed to create an S-shaped course through some obstacles ... just by throwing the disc at a different speed! You can combine this with Hyzer or Anyhyzer release angles to really control what the disc will do for how long during its flight path! The reality of this is that the wind probably creates more speed change problems than you can ... which explains why some discs act poorly (and some better) when flown in some wind conditions.

What are all those different Rocs?

So, I went to buy a Roc. I knew there were 2 kinds -- the speed 3 stable Classic Roc, and the speed 4 slightly overstable Roc. OK, so the discs are made in different plastics, that ups the choices a few. Wait .. there are about 6 different kinds of rocs, and they all have funny names on them -- what's up? It turns out that you need to know history. Innova started in San Markino, CA. Then they moved the plant to Ontario, CA, and as of this writing the plant is in ???, CA. The deal is that each time the plant moved, Innova subtly changed the design of the roc! Basically the newer rocs fly more over-stable than the older rocs. So, the Current Roc (???) is more overstable than the Ontario Roc, which is more overstable than the San Marino Roc.

How does plastic types affect the discs?

It affects the golf disc in a couple of ways.

  1. The plastic type gives different durability to the discs. The more expensive plastics tend to last longer and deform less as time goes on. The disc will also survive worse impacts without being deformed.
  2. The plastic types gives different grip affects to the discs. Some discs are more slippery than others, some are more grippy. This also affects putting characteristics, as a more grippy disc is more likely to grip the chains in the target.
  3. The plastic type affects the flight characteristics of the discs. Some of the plastics are more slippery than others .. and will make the disc fly faster for a given power. This will change the blend between aero and gyro stability that the discs have. Typically, a faster flying version will move to be more understable than the normal version.
  4. Some companies (such as Innova) design all their disc in their normal plastic, and then use the same molds to make the discs with the higher performance plastic. This works nice, because the disc characteristics in a given plastic line will be the same, and you can also switch plastic lines to get more or less affect (in-betweens). However, some other companies (Discraft) vary the plastic the base disc is designed in. This means you need to know which plastic is the real plastic for that disc to base your performance changes from. All the same changes apply, but you need to know where to start from.

Discraft Disc Ratings

Discraft discs are rated by Stability, a sliding scale from 3..-3. A 3 is an extremely overstable disc, hence the 3 being on the left in my notation system! A -3 is a very understable disc, which would tend to turn right, you get the idea.

Though they don't explicitly provide speed ratings like Innova does, you can sorta guess the speed range form the class of disc. Discraft has 5 disc classes, and I have my guess as to what Innova speed class the discs fit into:

  1. Maximum Distance Drivers -- >= 9 on the Innova Scale
  2. Extra Long Range Drivers -- 6..8
  3. Long Range Drivers -- 4..6
  4. Midrange -- 3..5
  5. Putt and Approach -- 1..3

Discraft recommends stability ratings ≤ 1.0 for beginning players.

Discraft makes the interesting observation that heavier discs are more overstable than a lighter version of the same disc. THey also point out that the overstable fade of a disc is away from it's rotation direction -- CW (R) spinning disc fades L.

The Golf Disc Selection Help page from Discraft provides an introduction to their system. There is a Comprehensive stability guide as well.

What I'm Throwing

Most of the disc I'm throwing are around 170 grams, just that's what I ended up with, and they seem to work OK.

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Last Modified: Tue Jun 25 13:13:12 CDT 2013
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