[lit] Ta?n ma.n chuye^.n a(n uo^'ng [1/2]

[AnHai Doan <anhai@cs.washington.edu>]

Ba`i sau dda^y do mo^.t DHS o+? DDo^ng A^u vie^'t, dda(ng tre^n mo^.t 
ba'o cha^u A^u. Pha^`n mo^.t no'i ve^` a(n uo^'ng no'i chung va` 
ba`n ve^` a(n pho+? no'i rie^ng. Pha^`n hai ba`n ve^` nu+o+'c ma('m.


CHUYE^.N A(N UO^'NG

1

Nu+o+'c ta co' ma^'y nha` va(n cu+.u tra`o hay no'i ve^` le^` tho'i
va` cung ca'ch a(n uo^'ng cu?a da^n to^.c. DDo' la` Nguye^~n Tua^n,
Tha.ch Lam va` Vu~ Ba(`ng.


Ve^` Nguye^~n Tua^n thie^'t tu+o+?ng cha(?ng pha?i ba`n, o^ng nha`
va(n co' tie^'ng la` ngo^ng va` xe^ di.ch na`y - tu+`ng u+o+'c "khi ta
che^'t ddi, da ta ddu+o+.c thuo^.c la`m ca'i va-li" -, chi? ba(`ng
Pho+?, Gio` lu.a, Co^'m , dda~ ddu+o+.c ngu+o+`i ddo+`i ga'n cho ca'i
ma'c: ddo^` dde^. cu?a chu? nghi~a a^?m thu+.c. Nguye^~n DDa(ng Ma.nh
co`n ke^? la.i ra(`ng "chi'nh Nguye^~n Tua^n cu~ng co' lu'c
tu+. tha^'y mi`nh co' mo^.t ca'ch nhi`n su+. va^.t rie^ng, go.i la`
'Nho+~n quan a^?m thu+.c'".

Tha.ch Lam vo+'i Ha` No^.i ba mu+o+i sa'u pho^' phu+o+`ng, dda~ dde^?
la.i cho ha^.u the^' nhu+~ng hi`nh a?nh tha^.t dde.p ve^` ca'c mo'n
a(n va` su+.-a(n-uo^'ng cu?a dda^'t Ha` tha`nh. Co`n Vu~ Ba(`ng, no'i
dde^'n nhu+~ng mo'n ngon Ha` No^.i chi? la` mo^.t ca'i co+': ba(`ng
gio.ng va(n tru+~ ti`nh ddu+o+.c dda^?y dde^'n cu+.c ddo^., vo+'i
nhu+~ng ca?m xu'c tra`n nga^.p, o^ng nho+' la.i nhu+~ng ma?nh dda^'t,
nhu+~ng con ngu+o+`i, nhu+~ng ta^.p tu.c cu?a mo^.t vu`ng dda^'t ye^u
da^'u ma` o^ng dda~ pha?i bo? no' ra ddi (Thu+o+ng nho+' mu+o+`i hai,
Mie^'ng ngon Ha` No^.i )

DDa^y la` mo+'i ddie^?m qua ba vi. tie^u bie^?u, chu+' thu+.c ra,
tru+o+'c va` sau ho., kho^ng i't ngu+o+`i cu~ng no'i nhie^`u va` no'i
hay ve^` ca'i a(n. Chi? ca^`n nha('c dde^'n Ta?n DDa` vo+'i bao giai
thoa.i dde^? ddo+`i ve^` su+. ca^`u ki` va` ky~ lu+o+~ng trong a(n
uo^'ng. Ta?n DDa` thu+.c pha^?m dda~ tha^'t truye^`n, nhu+ng dde^'n
nay, va^~n co`n co' ngu+o+`i thu tha^.p va` chi?nh ly' nhu+~ng tu+
lie^.u cu~, bie^n soa.n la.i mo^.t so^' thu+.c ddo+n (ddu+o+.c cho
la`) cu?a nha` tho+ na`y, la`m ai ddo.c cu~ng pha?i u+'a nu+o+'c
mie^'ng va` so+?n da ga` vi` the`m. Va` ne^'u Tha.ch Lam va` Vu~
Ba(`ng thu+o+`ng nha('c dde^'n ca'i a(n theo kha^?u vi. thu+o+`ng
nha^.t cu?a da^n thi. tha`nh, thi` Nam Cao, Ngo^ Ta^'t To^' la.i co'
nhie^`u trang sa'ch ba^'t hu? ve^` ca'i a(n - ca'i ddo'i - ca'i nhu.c
cu?a nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i da^n que^ lam lu~. DDo.c Mo^.t bu+~a no, Que^n
ddie^`u ddo^., Tre? con kho^ng bie^'t a(n thi.t cho' (Nam Cao), hay
Ca'i ba'nh chu+ng, La`m no hay ca'i a(n trong nhu+~ng nga`y nu+o+'c
nga^.p (Ngo^ Ta^'t To^'), ta cho+.t que^n ddi ca'i ngon, ca'i dde.p,
ca'i thi vi. trong su+. a(n cu?a Nguye^~n Tua^n, Vu~ Ba(`ng , ma` chi?
co`n ca?m gia'c kinh hoa`ng, tru+o+'c ca'i nhu.c nha~, ca'i e^ che^`
cu?a nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i kho^'n cu`ng, ddo'i kha't. Ro^`i co' di.p ddo.c
la.i ta^.p pho'ng su+. Vie^.c la`ng vie^'t ca'ch dda^y tro`n 55 na(m,
to^i cho+.t nha^.n ra: 13 tre^n to^?ng so^' 16 tie^?u pha^?m trong
ddo', la` no'i ve^` a(n, ca'i a(n kho^'n kho^? kie^?u "mo^.t mie^'ng
giu+~a la`ng" ma` du+o+`ng nhu+ da^n mi`nh va^~n co`n suy tu.ng cho
dde^'n ta^.n ba^y gio+`.


Nhu+~ng ddie^`u tre^n dda^y kho^ng co' gi` mo+'i. Cu+' cho la` va(n
nghe^. sy~ nha` mi`nh vo^'n thuo^.c do`ng Kho^?ng Ma.nh, tua^n thu?
ma^'y ca'i quy lua^.t "lo+`i cha`o cao ho+n ma^m co^~", hay "thu+.c
ba^'t ca^`u ba~o - a(n cha(?ng ca^`n no" cu?a ngu+o+`i qua^n tu+?,
thi` cu~ng kho^ng the^? phu? nha^.n ra(`ng hie^'m co' mo^.t ne^`n va(n
ho.c na`o, ma` vie^.c mie^u ta? ca'i a(n - ca'i uo^'ng, hay no^~i
ddo'i kha't, la.i chie^'m mo^.t pha^`n kho^ng nho? va` dda(.c sa('c
dde^'n nhu+ the^', trong di sa?n va(n ho.c da^n to^.c.


2

Hi`nh nhu+, tu+. co^? chi' kim, kho^ng co' ma^'y nha` va(n, nha` tho+,
hay nha.c sy~ na`o gia`u co', sung tu'c. Ca'i su+. la`m va(n, la`m
tho+, sa'ng ta'c nha.c, ne^'u co' the^? go.i la` nghe^`, thi` nhu+~ng
nghe^` a^'y thu+o+`ng kho^ng ddem la.i ca'i gia`u sang tu+'c tho+`i
cho ngu+o+`i thu+.c hie^.n chu'ng. Tha`nh thu+?, tru+` ca'c
vi. "se^'n" (tu+'c la` ca'c va(n, thi sy~ "se^'n", nha.c sy~ "se^'n"
), thi` tu`y tu+`ng mu+'c ddo^., hoa(.c ddu+o+.c dda.i chu'ng hie^?u
ngay nhu+ dda pha^`n, hoa(.c pha?i cho+` va`i tra(m na(m le? nhu+ Van
Gogh , nhu+ng ca'c va(n nghe^. sy~ "thu+.c thu." thu+o+`ng kho^ng
ma^'y kha' gia?.


Du` the^', co' le~ tre^n the^' gio+'i, i't no+i co' ca?nh ngu+o+`i
nghe^. sy~ - be^n ca.nh bao kho' kha(n co' ti'nh nghe^` nghie^.p (nhu+
sa'ng ta'c ra kho^ng ddu+o+.c lu+u ha`nh, bi. ngu+o+`i ddo+`i kho^ng
hie^?u va` dda? pha', che^ bai) va` tho+`i cuo^.c (chie^'n tranh,
dda?ng pha'i) - la.i pha?i gia`nh gia^.t dde^'n tu+`ng mie^'ng a(n,
nhu+ o+? Vie^.t Nam, mo^.t nu+o+'c ma` na.n ddo'i cu+o+'p ddi ma^'y
trie^.u ngu+o+`i na(m A^'t Da^.u co' le~ se~ vi~nh vie^~n la` mo^.t
co+n a'c mo^.ng kho' que^n cho bao gia ddi`nh. Ma` na`o chi? co'
the^': hi`nh nhu+ trong li.ch su+? ma^'y nga`n na(m "du+.ng nu+o+'c
va` giu+~ nu+o+'c", da^n ta luo^n ddo'i nhie^`u ho+n no, dde^'n no^~i
mo^.t nha` va(n no. dda~ pha?i ke^u le^n tha?ng tho^'t, ra(`ng la`m
ngu+o+`i ma` kho^ng bi. ddo'i thi` qua? la` ha.nh phu'c la('m va^.y!


Ha(?n dda^y la` mo^.t trong nhu+~ng ly' do chi'nh, khie^'n nhie^`u
nha` va(n ta no'i ve^` mie^'ng a(n. Chi'nh ho. la` nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i
trong cha(n, ne^n qua va(n ho., ta bie^'t va` tha^'y ro~ ca?m gia'c
cu?a ngu+o+`i bi. ra^.n ca('n.


Ngu+o+`i ta hay no'i dde^'n va(n ho'a a^?m thu+.c cu?a da^n Vie^.t
(va` A' DDo^ng no'i chung), dde^? co' y' khinh nho+`n ma^'y anh Ta^y,
gia`u co' thu+.c nhu+ng kho^ng co' truye^`n tho^'ng la^u ddo+`i, a(n
uo^'ng cu~ng chi? bie^'t dde^'n ma^'y thu+' ddo^` nhanh, go.n, ddo+n
gia?n va` tie^.n, nhu+ hamburger, hot dog, pizza Ro^`i la^'y ngay vi'
du. Nguye^~n Tua^n, va` ba?o o^ng khai tha'c mie^'ng a(n o+? bi`nh
die^.n va(n ho'a - li.ch su+?, dde^? qua ddo', bie^?u thi. ti`nh ye^u
que^ hu+o+ng, dda^'t nu+o+'c, con ngu+o+`i cu?a o^ng.


DDie^`u ddo' cha('c kho^ng sai hoa`n toa`n. Ba?n tha^n Nguye^~n Tua^n,
y' thu+'c ddu+o+.c vi. the^' cu?a mi`nh tre^n va(n dda`n, cu~ng hay
quan tro.ng ho'a va^'n dde^`: ba`n ve^` pho+?, o^ng ne^u ra, na`o la`
"ta^m ho^`n cu?a pho+?", "mo^.t ne^`n ly' lua^.n cho mo'n pho+?",
"da^n to^.c ti'nh va` qua^`n chu'ng ti'nh cu?a pho+?"; no'i dde^'n
gio`, o^ng cho ddo' la` "ddi?nh cao cu?a mo^.t da.ng va(n ho'a da^n
to^.c" Di~ nhie^n o^ng co' ly' pha^`n na`o, va` co^' hie^?u o^ng qua
nhu+~ng trang sa'ch a(n uo^'ng theo cung ca'ch o+? tre^n, cu~ng
ddu+o+.c. Nhu+ng e phie^'n die^.n mo^.t chie^`u. Nhu+ kie^?u
cu. Hoa`ng Va(n Chi', trong Tra(m hoa ddua no+? tre^n dda^'t Ba('c,
dda~ lie^.t Nguye^~n Tua^n va`o ha`ng nha` va(n ddo^`i ba.i, thi'ch
hu+o+?ng la.c!


To^i thi` cu+' muo^'n cho ra(`ng, cha(?ng rie^ng gi` Nguye^~n Tua^n,
ma` ca? Tha.ch Lam va` Vu~ Ba(`ng nu+~a, khi nha('c dde^'n mie^'ng
a(n, thi` ca'i va(n ho'a a^?m thu+.c, ne^'u co', cu~ng chi? la` vo?
ngoa`i tho^i. [...]

Ro^`i, to^i co`n muo^'n nghi~ ra(`ng, ca'c vi. no'i tre^n so+? di~
dda(.c ta? ca'i a(n, ca'i uo^'ng, la` nha(`m nha('n gu+?i mo^.t ta^m
ti`nh rie^ng tu+ na`o ddo', qua mo^.t dde^` ta`i phu` ho+.p vo+'i so+?
tru+o+`ng cu?a ho.. O+? Nguye^~n Tua^n, ddo' la` su+. sa`nh so?i va`
kha('t khe ve^` su+. a(n, vo^'n ddu+o+.c na^ng le^n tha`nh mo^.t
chua^?n mu+.c, va` no^~i ddau lo`ng khi tha^'y no' kho^ng co`n
ddu+o+.c nhu+ y' o^ng muo^'n, hoa(.c kho^ng theo nhu+~ng le^` tho'i
truye^`n tho^'ng ma` o^ng luo^n xu+ng tu.ng. O+? Vu~ Ba(`ng, ddo' la`
no^~i nho+' nhung ve^` nhu+~ng ca?nh xu+a, ngu+o+`i cu~ chi? co`n
trong ta^m tu+o+?ng, ma` o^ng kho^ng co' ddie^`u kie^.n no'i tha(?ng
ra. O+? Tha.ch Lam, ddo' la` lo`ng ye^u thu+o+ng da die^'t, nhie^`u
khi dde^'n ta^?n ma^?n, ve^` nhu+~ng le^` xu+a tho'i cu~ cu?a Ha`
tha`nh, trong ddo' co' mie^'ng a(n, ma` ha(?n o^ng lo se~ mai mo^.t
theo nga`y tha'ng, theo do`ng cuo^`ng lu+u cu?a tho+`i cuo^.c. Nhu+ng
chi? dde^'n the^'. Co`n chuye^.n va(n ho'a a^?m thu+.c, ro^`i nhu+~ng
lo+`i dda.i ngo^n ve^` ti`nh ye^u que^ hu+o+ng, dda^'t nu+o+'c bao la
va^~n ddu+o+.c ga('n cho ho., co' le~ co`n ca^`n pha?i xem la.i.


Nhu+ng to^i la.i tha^'y, toa't ra tu+` mo^~i ca^u chu+~, mo^~i trang
vie^'t ve^` a(n cu?a ho., mo^.t no^~i nie^`m mong mo?i cho tu+o+ng lai
kho^ng co`n nhu+~ng loa.n la.c, khi ngu+o+`i da^n bi`nh thu+o+`ng
cu~ng co' the^? ddu+o+.c hu+o+?ng nhu+~ng mo'n ngon theo ddu'ng kie^?u
ca'ch co^? truye^`n. Mie^'ng a(n ngon, dda.t pha^?m lu+o+.ng o+? dda^y
tu+o+.ng tru+ng cho su+. an cu+, la.c nghie^.p, cho mo^.t cuo^.c
so^'ng kho^ng dde^'n no^~i qua' thie^'u tho^'n, tre^n mo^.t ma?nh
dda^'t thanh bi`nh.

[...]

3


Nhu+ dda~ no'i o+? tre^n, da^n to^.c mi`nh vo^'n co' duye^n no+. vo+'i
ca'i a(n. Ne^n muo^'n la`m ba^'t cu+' vie^.c gi`, cu~ng pha?i co'
a(n. Kho+?i dda^`u va` ke^'t thu'c mo^.t co^ng vie^.c, bao gio+` cu~ng
la` ma`n a(n nha^.u. DDo+`i na`o cu~ng the^', kho^ng co' a(n thi`
ho^?ng xong! [...]


A(n ddi ca? va`o trong ngo^n ngu+~. To^? chu+'c cha`o mu+`ng mo^.t
ca'i gi` ddo', di~ nhie^n pha?i co' a(n, ne^n mo+'i tha`nh a(n Te^'t,
a(n co^~, a(n cu+o+'i, a(n ho?i, a(n gio^~, a(n mu+`ng ngay ca? ca'i
vie^.c rie^ng tu+, tha^`m ki'n va` tuye^.t vo+`i nha^'t cu?a nam nu+~,
cu~ng di'nh dde^'n a(n: a(n na(`m! Du+o+`ng nhu+ ca'c cu. nga`y xu+a
co' y' ba?o a(n va` na(`m (hay a(n xong ro^`i na(`m) la` nhu+~ng
vie^.c khoa'i tra' va` thu' vi. nha^'t cu?a con ngu+o+`i?


Ca'i vu. ba^'t ke^? thu+' gi` cu~ng di'nh dde^'n a(n na`y, dda~ co'
la^`n la`m to^i kho^'n kho^? vo+'i mo^.t anh ba.n ba?n ddi.a. Anh
na`y, co' qua ta va`i la^`n, bie^'t ddo^i chu't Vie^.t ngu+~, u+a va`
su`ng ba'i nhie^`u thu+' A' DDo^ng (nha^'t la` dda`n ba`!). Theo ngo^n
ngu+~ cu?a chu'ng to^i, anh "a(n pha?i ba? ta"!


Xem mo^.t cuo^'n sa'ch ve^` Vie^.t Nam ba(`ng tie^'ng ba?n xu+', anh
ta nga.c nhie^n khi ddu+o+.c bie^'t, tra'i vo+'i A^u cha^u no'i la`
mu+`ng Te^'t, da^n ta ba?o la` a(n Te^'t, va` ra(`ng da^n mi`nh co`n
thu+o+`ng a(n uo^'ng linh ddi`nh khi co' ai ddo' qua ddo+`i
nu+~a. "Sao ki` dza^.y ho+? ma`y?" - anh ho?i.


Thu?a a^'y, to^i mo+'i qua be^n na`y, chu+~ nghi~a co`n ke'm co?i,
la.i kho^ng co' ma^'y hie^?u bie^'t ve^` phong tu.c da^n to^.c. Ne^n
lie^`u thuye^'t gia?ng bu+`a mo^.t ho^`i, dda.i kha'i nhu+ sau, kho^ng
bie^'t co' la`m nhu.c quo^'c the^? Vie^.t Nam kho^ng:


"Nu+o+'c tao he^'t dda'nh gia(.c la.i no^.i chie^'n trie^`n mie^n,
ne^n thu+o+`ng ddo'i va` hie^'m ca'i a(n la('m. Ca? na(m mo+'i co'
mo^.t va`i nga`y ddu+o+.c coi la` dda(.c bie^.t, khi a^'y gia ddi`nh
na`o cu~ng co^' cho ddu? chu't ddo^` a(n. DDo' la` nga`y gio^~ cha
me., o^ng ba` va` ma^'y nga`y Te^'t. Te^'t cu?a chu'ng tao thie^ng
lie^ng la('m, ngu+o+`i ta co`n ba?o 'ddo'i nga`y gio^~ cha, no ba
nga`y Te^'t', ne^n mo+'i co' chuye^.n a(n Te^'t la` vi` the^'.
Vie^.c a(n uo^'ng khi co' ai ma^'t, ddo+n gia?n la` dde^? ca?m
ta. nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i dde^'n chia buo^`n vo+'i gia ddi`nh, va^.y tho^i.
Va(n minh A' DDo^ng ca? dda^'y, ma`y bie^'t qua'i gi`!"


Ha(?n cho la` to^i co' ly', hoa(.c gia? kho^ng hie^?u mo^ te^ gi` ca?,
ne^n anh ba.n chi? la(.ng thinh ra ddie^`u nga^~m nghi~ ro^`i ga^.t
gu`.


Nhu+ng co`n xa anh ta mo+'i mu+o+`ng tu+o+.ng no^?i ca'i mie^'ng a(n
co' gia' dde^'n mu+.c na`o vo+'i the^' he^. chu'ng to^i trong ma^'y
nga`y Te^'t. To^i co`n nho+' nhu+ in ca'i ca?nh giu+~a tro+`i
re't ca(m ca(m, ca? nha` ti'u ti't, ro^.n ra`ng chia nhau vie^.c,
ngu+o+`i ru+?a la' dong, ke? tha'i, u+o+'p thi.t, gia~ ddo^~ chua^?n
bi. go'i ba'nh chu+ng. Thuo^.c tha`nh pha^`n vo^ du.ng "thie^n lo^i
chi? dda^u dda'nh dda^'y", hay la`m qua^?n cha^n ngu+o+`i lo+'n, to^i
ddu+o+.c cu+? ddi xe^'p ha`ng mua go'i qua` Te^'t theo tie^u chua^?n
pha^n pho^'i, dda.i kha'i go^`m mo^.t ho^.p mu+'t, mo^.t go'i che`,
va`i bao thuo^'c la', mo^.t ma?nh bo'ng lo+.n thu+o+`ng dda~ kho^
cu+'ng, mo^'c meo, mo^.t go'i mi` chi'nh con con va` i't ha.t tie^u
vo?. Khoa'i nha^'t vo+'i lu~ tre? la` mo^.t ba(ng pha'o ma^.u di.ch
ma` kho^ng ai da'm ddoan cha('c la` no' se~ no^? ra sao. Va^.n me^.nh
cu?a ca? mo^.t na(m phu. thuo^.c va`o tra`ng pha'o giao thu+`a ddo'n
xua^n, kho^ng ma^'y ai da.i gi` ma` tin va`o thu+' "quo^'c doanh"
a^'y: to^'t nha^'t la` sa('m saun va`i ba(ng pha'o mua ngoa`i ma`
ne^'u co' di.p, chu'ng to^i co`n xin phe'p cha me., le^n ta^.n Bi`nh
DDa` dde^? ta^.u.


No'i chung, nghe`o kho^? dde^'n ma^'y, gia ddi`nh na`o va`o di.p Te^'t
cu~ng co' ddu+o+.c va`i chie^'c ba'nh chu+ng, con ga` cu'ng, i't gio`
lu.a, gio` thu?, cha? que^' va` no^`i ma(ng ha^`m. The^' cu~ng dda~
la` tu+o+m la('m so vo+'i nga`y thu+o+`ng. Lu~ chu'ng to^i na`o bie^'t
dda^u, ddo' la` mo^.t no^~ lu+.c tuye^.t ddi?nh cu?a cha me.. Vui
nha^'t la` lu'c cho+` ddo'n giao thu+`a, ca? nha` qua^y qua^`n be^n
no^`i ba'nh chu+ng so^i su`ng su.c, chuye^.n tro` ro^m ra? hoa(.c
dda'nh tam cu'c, tu'-lo+-kho+. (Ca'i su+. gi` cu~ng mua saun he^'t
tho+`i nay, ke^? ca? ba'nh chu+ng Te^'t, di~ nhie^n tie^.n va` chu+'ng
to? ddo^. pha't trie^?n cu?a di.ch vu. o+? xu+' ta, nhu+ng to^i va^~n
cho la` no' la`m gia?m ddi ca'i vui, ca'i thi vi., va` nha^'t la` ca'i
ho^`i ho^.p kho^ng gi` ta? no^?i lu'c chua^?n bi. cho Te^'t co^?
truye^`n da^n to^.c). Ma^'y nga`y lie^`n, cho+i ca? nga`y ma` dde^'n
nu+?a dde^m ma('t va^~n chong chong, cha(?ng ddu+'a na`o buo^`n ngu?;
cha? bu` cho nhu+~ng nga`y trong na(m, to^'i ho.c dde^'n chi'n,
mu+o+`i gio+` dda~ tri~u ma('t. To^i ddo^` ra(`ng cha(?ng nhu+~ng vi`
vui va` ham cho+i, ma` ma^'y mie^'ng thi.t ngon la`nh chu+'a dda^`y
pro^ti't cu~ng go'p pha^`n kho^ng nho? trong vie^.c na^ng cao the^?
lu+.c cho chu'ng to^i.


A(n khi vui la` chuye^.n thu+o+`ng ti`nh, thie^'t nghi~ cha(?ng ca^`n
da`i do`ng, nha('c dde^'n nhu+ mo^.t ky? nie^.m tho^i. Nhu+ng da^n
mi`nh, khi buo^`n cu~ng a(n. Du` co' khi a(n cha(?ng vo^, hay a(n va`o
chi? dde^? ro^`i la.i bi. to^'ng ra cu`ng bia bo.t, ru+o+.u che`. DDo'
la` mie^'ng a(n nhu+~ng lu'c sa^`u tha?m, khi cu'ng gio^~, tang le^~.


Gio+` to^i mo+'i y' thu+'c ddu+o+.c ra(`ng do bi. ddo'i kho^? va`
thie^'u tho^'n thu+o+`ng xuye^n, ca'i a(n cu?a da^n Vie^.t lu'c cu'ng
gio^~ co' pha?ng pha^'t ti'nh cha^'t to^n gia'o. DDe^? o^ng ba`, cha
me. hu+o+?ng pha^`n hu+o+ng hoa tru+o+'c, ro^`i mo+'i dde^'n lu+o+.t
con cha'u. Thu?a be', to^i ra^'t thi'ch nhu+~ng di.p a^'y (ddu+o+.c
a(n ngon ma` la.i!), luo^n nga.c nhie^n tru+o+'c nhu+~ng thu? tu.c
la.y lu.c ca^`u ki` va` tha`nh kha^?n cu?a ngu+o+`i lo+'n, va` pha
chu't ca'u bu+.c do pha?i ddo+.i ta`n mo^.t tua^`n hu+o+ng mo+'i
ddu+o+.c ddo^.ng ddu~a. Nhu+~ng ddu+'a ha'u a(n, ddo'i meo va` so^'t
ruo^.t vi` ddo+.i cho+`, co' khi kho^ng chie^'n tha('ng no^?i ba?n
tha^n, tro't bo^'c vu.ng ddo^i chu't, thu+o+`ng bi. tru+`ng
tri. ddi'ch dda'ng. DDe^'n lu'c hu+o+ng ta`n, mie^'ng thi.t chu'ng
to^i a(n sao vo^ vi., nha.t nhe~o va` nguo^.i nga('t the^'? Pha?i
cha(ng, qua? thu+.c ca'c cu. dda~ ve^` tu+` co~i a^m ddo'i kha't va`
chia se? cu`ng con cha'u mie^'ng a(n?


Nhu+ng ca'i a(n khi cu'ng gio^~, tha^'m va`o dda^u vo+'i ca'i a(n lu'c
ddu+a tang. A^'n tu+o+.ng bi tha?m ve^` ba't co+m, qua? tru+'ng luo^.c
cu`ng che'n nu+o+'c dda(.t tre^n chie^'c quan ta`i, giu+~a hu+o+ng
kho'i nghi ngu't, luo^n la`m to^i u+'a nu+o+'c ma('t vi` thu+o+ng
ca?m. Cu+' ngo+~ che^'t la` he^'t, ngo+` dda^u ddu+o+`ng ve^` co~i a^m
co`n kho^? a?i, gian nan the^' sao, dde^'n ddo^. nhu+~ng ke? so^'ng
co`n pha?i lo lu+o+ng a(n cho ngu+o+`i dda~ khua^'t?


To^i ddu+o+.c nghe o+? mo^.t va`i da^n to^.c thie^?u so^', ngu+o+`i
vu+`a ma^'t chu+a ddu+o+.c cho^n ca^'t ngay ma` co`n bi. dde^? giu+~a
nha` suo^'t ba nga`y ba dde^m; tha^n nha^n ho. mo+? tie^.c mo+`i la`ng
ba?n, ro^`i ke? so^'ng cu+' a(n mo^.t mie^'ng la.i bo'n cho ngu+o+`i
che^'t mo^.t mie^'ng, sau ddo' ai na^'y o`a le^n kho'c tha?m
thie^'t. DDie^`u na`y, co' khi ba('t nguo^`n tu+` nhu+~ng phong tu.c
co^? xu+a mang na(.ng ti'nh ta^m linh ma` to^i kho^ng da'm ba`n dde^'n
o+? dda^y. Nhu+ng tru+o+'c kia, ngay ca? o+? mie^`n xuo^i, nha^'t la`
ta.i ca'c vu`ng que^, tang le^~ luo^n la` nhu+~ng di.p dde^? ngu+o+`i
ta a(n uo^'ng thu` ta.c, sa't pha.t linh ddi`nh. Co' le~ mu.c ddi'ch
chi'nh, nhu+ dda~ no'i o+? tre^n, la` dde^? ca?m o+n nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i
dde^'n du+., cu`ng tha^n quye^'n ddu+a ngu+o+`i dda~ khua^'t ve^` no+i
an nghi? cuo^'i cu`ng. Co' ddie^`u, cho dde^'n nay thu' thu+.c to^i
va^~n kho^ng the^? hie^?u ddu+o+.c, trong mo^.t khung ca?nh tang to'c,
buo^`n ba~ dde^'n va^.y, ta.i sao nhie^`u ngu+o+`i va^~n co' the^?
cu+o+`i cu+o+`i no'i no'i, che'n chu' che'n anh, a(n uo^'ng khoa'i
dda.t nhu+ to^i dda~ tu+`ng chu+'ng kie^'n? Cha('c ha(?n, ddo' kho^ng
pha?i la` nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i con ma^'t cha me., o^ng ba` (ne^'u co',
pha?i la` thu+' con "ai ddo^`ng y' bo^' che^'t, gio+ tay" trong Kho^ng
co' vua cu?a Nguye^~n Huy Thie^.p). DDo' pha?i cha(ng la` nhu+~ng
phu+o+`ng ba't a^m, nhu+~ng ke? ke^u thue^ kho'c mu+o+'n, chuye^n
nghe^` a(n tu+` nhu+~ng xa'c che^'t? Hay nhu+~ng ke? vo^'n co' tha^m
thu` vo+'i ngu+o+`i dda~ ma^'t, gio+` ddu+o+.c di.p ho+?i lo`ng ho+?i
da.? Ro^`i nhu+~ng ke? vo^ ta^m, vui dda^u cha^`u dda^'y, cu+' tha^'y
co' mie^'ng a(n la` ba^u la.i?


Tu+o+?ng the^' nhu+ng co' khi kho^ng pha?i. Tha^n ma^~u to^i co' la^`n
tu+`ng ba?o: "La^'y a(n la`m go^'c" kho^ng sai dda^u nhe'. Ngu+o+`i ta
co`n a(n ca? lu'c buo^`n kho^?, a(n dde^? tan no^~i buo^`n, dde^? cho
no' va`o di~ va~ng. DDe^? la^'y la.i su+'c ma.nh the^? cha^'t va` tinh
tha^`n ma` vu+o+.t qua ta^'t ca?. Ngu+o+`i Vie^.t mi`nh the^' dda^'y.


Co' tha^.t nhu+ va^.y kho^ng?


4


La.i no'i ve^` Nguye^~n Tua^n. Khi no'i ve^` a(n, o^ng la`m cho ta co'
ca?m tu+o+?ng ddo' kho^ng chi? thua^`n tu'y la` mo^.t mie^'ng
ngon. No' co`n la` mo^.t mie^'ng dde.p, mie^'ng-tinh-tha^`n, khie^'n
ta pha?i ddo^'i xu+? vo+'i no' mo^.t ca'ch "co' va(n ho'a". Nghi~a la`
a(n cu~ng pha?i theo ddu'ng phe'p ta('c, nghi le^~, kie^?u ca'ch.


Ngu+o+`i ta ba?o ngay o+? khoa?n na`y, Nguye^~n Tua^n cu~ng ngo^ng,
tu+'c la` o^ng co^' ti`nh na^ng le^n ta^`m quan tro.ng, thie^ng lie^ng
nhu+~ng thu+' vo^'n bi. coi la` pha`m tu.c, ta^`m thu+o+`ng. To^i thi`
cho ra(`ng cha(?ng qua o^ng coi a(n cu~ng nhu+ mo^.t thu' cho+i nha`n
ta?ng, nhu+ muo^n va`n ca'c thu' kha'c cu?a ngu+o+`i qua^n tu+?, ma`
o^ng dda~ thua^.t la.i trong Vang bo'ng mo^.t tho+`i.


Truye^`n tho^'ng A' DDo^ng hay quan tro.ng ho'a va^'n dde^` va` dda(.t
ra la('m chua^?n mu+.c ro^'i ra('m. Tho+`i xu+a, kha't ma^'y nhu+ng
ga(.p con suo^'i ma` ke? dda.o ta(.c dda~ uo^'ng, cu~ng pha?i ba^'m
bu.ng ma` ddi. Ngu+o+`i Trung Quo^'c co`n ddo+~, ho. chi? hay la`m to
chuye^.n nhu+~ng gi` di'nh da'ng tru+.c tie^'p va` gia'n tie^'p dde^'n
va(n ho'a, nghe^. thua^.t, nhu+ vie^'t la'ch, ve~ vo+`i (pha?i cho.n
bu't nghie^n, cho.n mu+.c, gia^'y ma', ro^`i ngo'ng cho+` tho+`i
ddie^?m thi'ch ho+.p), hay thu+o+?ng ngoa.n va(n ho.c (tru+o+'c khi
ddo.c, pha?i ta('m ru+?a sa.ch se~, a(n va^.n chi?nh te^`, tha('p
ne^'n ba.ch la.p). Chu+' dde^'n nhu+ Nhu+.t Bo^?n thi` tha^.t qua'
tro+'n; kho^ng pha?i vo^ co+' ma` co' nha` va(n ta dda~ go.i ca'i
su+. la`m gi` cu~ng chie^?u theo nhu+~ng nghi thu+'c, ddie^.u
bo^. dde.p dde~ ma` gia? ta.o a^'y, la` cuo^.c so^'ng "la^'y le^~ la`m
go^'c"! O+? xu+' hoa anh dda`o, ca'i gi` cu~ng ddu+o+.c (bi.?) na^ng
le^n tha`nh dda.o: ca('m hoa, cu+' tu+o+?ng de^~ ma` pha?i ho.c da`i
da`i; uo^'ng tra`, pha?i qua la('m thu? tu.c phie^`n phu+'c, to^'n
tho+`i gian va` nhie^u khe^. Chu+a no'i gi` dde^'n tro` cho+i ca^y
ca?nh va` non bo^. (bonsai) co^ng phu va` kho' co' tie^'ng. Ngay vo~
nghe^. la` thu+' mang ti'nh cha^n tay ma` ho. cu~ng co`n la.y lu.c,
cha`o ho?i nhau cha'n mo+'i ddo^.ng thu?, dde^'n ru't mo^.t thanh
kie^'m ra che'm cu~ng pha?i die^~n mo^.t ma`n ki.ch da`i da(`ng da(.c
va` nghie^m tro.ng nhu+ tuo^`ng co^? cu?a ta va^.y (pha?i cha(ng ca'i
nghi thu+'c ra.ch bu.ng cu?a ca'c Ca?m tu+? qua^n da(m chu.c na(m
nga`y xu+a, cu~ng co' nguo^`n xa xa(m tu+. dda^y?).


Da`i do`ng la.c dde^` nhu+ the^' dde^? ba?o ra(`ng ca'i su+. to^n
tro.ng le^~ nghi trong a(n uo^'ng cu?a ta, cha('c ha(?n kho^ng i't
thi` nhie^`u, chi.u a?nh hu+o+?ng nhu+~ng ta^.p tu.c ca'c nu+o+'c
trong vu`ng. Tie^u chua^?n a(n uo^'ng cu?a Ta?n DDa` (mo'n ngon, cho^~
to^'t, ba.n hie^`n, tho+`i gian thi'ch ho+.p) cu~ng chu+'ng to? vie^.c
ddu+a a(n uo^'ng va`o nhu+~ng phe'p ta('c, co' le~ dda~ ddu+o+.c mo^
pho?ng theo nhu+~ng "chuye^n nga`nh" kha'c cu?a ddo+`i so^'ng (vi'
du.: ba chu.c ca'i thu' cu?a Kim Tha'nh Tha'n).


A(n uo^'ng ddu'ng ca'ch, ddu'ng kha^?u vi. va` sa`nh ddie^.u, di~
nhie^n la` ca'i hay ma` kho^ng pha?i ai cu~ng bie^'t va` cu~ng
ra`nh. Nhu+ng dda^?y no' dde^'n mu+'c cu+.c ddoan nhu+ Nguye^~n Tua^n
trong Pho+? cha(?ng ha.n, to^i e chu+?a cha('c dda~ thu'. Trong a(n
uo^'ng cu~ng nhu+ ddo+`i so^'ng, gia'o ddie^`u, cu+'ng nha('c qua',
thie^'u tu+. do va` su+. lu+.a cho.n, la` ddie^`u kho^ng hay.


Bi`nh sinh con ngu+o+`i, a(n nha^.u muo^'n ngon, cu+' pha?i thoa?i
ma'i, kho^ng qua' ca^u ne^.. Va? la.i, a(n la` chuye^.n co' di'nh
nhie^`u dde^'n so+? thi'ch ca' nha^n. Xin ddu+o+.c tie^'p tu.c ba(`ng
pho+?. DDu+o+.c bie^'t lu'c sinh tho+`i, o^ng Nguye^~n chi? xa`i
ddu+o+.c loa.i pho+? bo` chi'n, kho^ng o+'t, kho^ng chu't nu+o+'c
ma('m, da^'m phu. tro+.; o^ng he^'t su+'c ta'n tu.ng no', va` ba`i
xi'ch ca'c the^? loa.i kha'c la` "pho+? ta^?m bo^?". Di~ nhie^n, dda^y
la` quye^`n tu+. do cu?a o^ng. Nhu+ng, to^i va^~n khoa'i a(n pho+?
ta'i (mie^~n la` la`m khe'o) ma` kho^ng ca?m tha^'y he^` ha^'n gi`
ve^` ca'i "gia' tri. my~ ho.c cu?a ba't pho+? chi'n", cu`ng lo+`i
cha^m chi'ch ve^` su+. "muo^'n bo^?, sao kho^ng uo^'ng
Pa(ng-to^-co+`-rin cu?a Lie^n-xo^, co`n co' ta'c du.ng ba(`ng ma^'y!"
cu?a o^ng Nguye^~n. Va` cha('c ra(`ng, ddo^'i vo+'i nhie^`u ngu+o+`i
trong ddo' co' to^i, pho+? bo` hay pho+? ga` dde^`u co' the^? ngon
nhu+ thu+o+`ng, mie^~n la` ddu+o+.c la`m ddu'ng ca'ch: nu+o+'c du`ng
na^'u ba(`ng xu+o+ng, su?i la(n ta(n, ngo.t, trong, tho+m, ddu?
vi. gu+`ng, ha`nh, ho^`i, tha?o qua? va` ha.t tie^u, ba'nh pho+? dai,
luo^.c chi'n dde^'n


Ro~ ra`ng, co' tho+`i, pho+? dda~ kho^ng ddu+o+.c nhu+ cung ca'ch no'
pha?i co', ma` o^ng Nguye^~n pha`n na`n trong ba`i cu?a mi`nh. O^ng
ke^? dde^'n ly' do chie^'n tranh, ddo^i khi pha?i tu`y tie^.n va`
"tu`y nghi". Nhu+ng sau ddo', kho^ng tha^'y o^ng ddie^?m dde^'n pho+?
cu?a tho+`i bao ca^'p ca'ch dda^y ga^`n hai chu.c na(m, khi chie^'n
tranh dda~ cha^'m du+'t, va` kho^ng co`n ly' gi` la`m cho pho+? pha?i
lua^n la.c. To^i kho^ng la`m sao que^n ddu+o+.c ca'i tho+`i pho+?
ddu+o+.c chia tha`nh ma^.u di.ch va` tu+ nha^n a^'y: pho+? ma^.u di.ch
co' hai loa.i, pho+? nu+o+'c, kho^ng ngu+o+`i la'i chi? go^`m ba'nh
pho+? va` nu+o+'c du`ng (gia' 2,5 ha`o) va` pho+? thi.t, co' lo~ng
bo~ng ca? va`i mie^'ng thi.t (gia' 5 ha`o). Gia ddi`nh to^i vo^'n
co^ng nha^n vie^n chu+'c, ne^n no'i chung, chi? da'm xa`i loa.i ma^.u
di.ch, du` bie^'t no' kho^ng ddu+o+.c dda.t tie^u chua^?n la('m; va?
la.i, thu+o+`ng chi? khi na`o o^'m mo+'i ddu+o+.c ne^'m, lu'c a^'y
ngon ma^'y cu~ng kho' nuo^'t dzo^, pha^n bie^.t la`m chi ngon
do+?. 

Pho+? tu+ nha^n di~ nhie^n kha' ho+n nhie^`u (to^i lie^.t va`o ha.ng
na`y ca? thu+' pho+? cu?a nhu+~ng to^? ho+.p ta'c, mo^.t hi`nh thu+'c
"tu+ hu+~u ho'a" ca^'p tha^'p ho^`i a^'y), co^' nhie^n, gia' ca? cu~ng
ma('c ho+n, tu+` 7,5 ha`o dde^'n mo^.t ddo^`ng ru+o+~i. Ca'i gia' sau
na`y chi? nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? danh gia', cu+. pha'ch nha^'t mo+'i da'm
ddo`i (hay nha('c dde^'n gia' ca?, cu~ng chi? muo^'n nho+' ve^` du+
a^m mo^.t tho+`i. Hi`nh nhu+ dda^`u the^' ky?, ddo^. 1,2 xu la`
ddu+o+.c mo^.t ba't pho+? kho^ng to^`i. Ca'i gia' trung bi`nh hie^.n
nay, la` bo^'n, na(m nga`n ddo^`ng ba.c ba'c Ho^`) Nhu+~ng qua'n
pho+?, kho^ng hie^?u sao thu+o+`ng ddu+o+.c dda(.t trong mo^.t ca(n
buo^`ng kho^ng ma^'y lo+'n, to^i to^'i, co' pha^`n a^?m tha^'p, vo+'i
nhu+~ng bo^. ba`n ghe^' go^~ tha^'p le` te`. Kha'ch dde^'n, la('m khi
pha?i cho+` ddo+.i dde^? co' ba`n, nhu+ng kho^ng ai to? ra so^'t
ruo^.t va` ca'u ga('t nhu+ khi xe^'p ha`ng ma^.u di.ch. Ha(?n ai na^'y
dde^`u ta^m nie^.m ra(`ng ddo' la` ca'i gia' pha?i tra?, khi ddu+o+.c
thu+o+?ng thu+'c mo^.t mo'n ngon co' cha^'t lu+o+.ng cao. Va? la.i,
lu'c cho+` ddo+.i, ngu+o+`i ta co' the^? no'i va` nghe ddu? thu+'
tre^n tro+`i du+o+'i dda^'t, ke^? ca? nhu+~ng tin "tuye^.t ma^.t" nhu+
chuye^.n ta(ng gia' ga.o hoa(.c ddo^?i tie^`n va`o nga`y ho^m sau, ma`
dda`i ba'o va^~n cu+' cho^'i dda^y dda^?y.


Thi?nh thoa?ng, chu'ng to^i cu~ng ddu+o+.c dde^'n nhu+~ng no+i ddo',
thu+o+`ng la` khi cha me. mo+'i co' lu+o+ng, hay ddu+o+.c
thu+o+?ng. Cu+' ddo^. mo^~i tha'ng mo^.t la^`n, ma^'y ddu+'a tre?
kho^'n kho^? vi` tho`m the`m ddu+o+.c ngo^`i sau xe dda.p, la('m khi
ddi dde^'n nhu+~ng no+i ra^'t xa la. vo+'i chu'ng, vi` o+? ddo' co'
ha`ng pho+? ngon ("Ba` A. ba?o the^'", cha me. chu'ng no'i; "ba` A."
o+? dda^y thu+o+`ng la` mo^.t nha^n va^.t buo^n ba'n, phe pha^?y, theo
ngo^n ngu+~ tho+`i ba^'y gio+`). Khoa?ng tho+`i gian cho+` ddo+.i,
nhi`n la~o chu? qua'n co' ca'i bu.ng to co^`ng ke^`nh mu'a chie^'c
muo^i va` con dao sa'ng loa'ng - trong lo`ng tha^`m mo+ "gia' ddu+o+.c
tha`nh la~o ta dde^? a(n ca? nga`y thi` su+o+'ng nha^?y!" -, la`
nhu+~ng gia^y phu't ho^`i ho^.p va` ha.nh phu'c nha^'t cu?a lu~
tre?. Va` cuo^'i cu`ng thi` ba't pho+? nghi ngu't kho'i, tho+m no^`ng
ddu+o+.c ddu+a le^n, chu'ng to^i ddu+o+.c da.y ca'ch a(n tu+` tu+`,
cha^.m ra~i dde^? ca'i vi. cu?a pho+? nga^'m va`o huye^'t qua?n, va`o
tu+`ng ddu+o+`ng ga^n, tho+' thi.t. To^i hay co' ca?m gia'c ha^~ng va`
tie^'c, pha chu't hoa?ng ho^'t khi ba't pho+? sa('p ca.n: la.i pha?i
cho+` ha`ng tha'ng gio+`i dda(`ng ddaung nu+~a! Cho dde^'n gio+`,
kho^ng phai trong to^i a^'n tu+o+.ng nhu+~ng dde^m gia' re't, tre^n
con ddu+o+`ng ve^` nha` tu+` qua'n pho+?, ca'c ba^.c phu. huynh he^?
ha? vi` "ca'i qua'n kha' tha^.t, dda'ng tie^`n bo? ra!", co`n to^i
va^~n ra^m ran ca? tha^n the^? vi` ba't pho+? no'ng ho^?i trong bu.ng,
va` pha^'n khi'ch vi` vu+`a ddu+o+.c "tie^u thu." mo^.t thu+' mi~
vi. dde^'n the^'.


DDo^'i vo+'i nhie^`u ngu+o+`i, a(n pho+?, muo^'n ta^.n hu+o+?ng
ddu+o+.c he^'t ca'i su+o+'ng, cu+' pha?i cho.n ha`ng pho+? ga'nh
ngoa`i pho^', ngo^`i xo^?m (hay be^.t) xi` xu.p, nu+o+'c ma('t nu+o+'c
mu~i da`n du.a, hu'p tha`nh tie^'ng ro~ to ro^`i suy't xoa khoa'i
tra'. La('m o^ng to ba` lo+'n ma` va^~n me^ thu+' pho+? bi`nh da^n
ddo', nhu+ng vu+`a si~ vu+`a nga.i lo^. die^.n, pha?i dde^? xe o+? ro~
xa, a(n ma(.c gia?n di. cuo^'c bo^. ho`a nha^.p va`o do`ng ngu+o+`i
lam lu~ go^`m ddu? ca'c tha`nh pha^`n. Ca?nh tu+o+.ng a(n uo^'ng nhu+
the^', nhi`n thi` co' ve? tho^ la^.u va` ho+i ma^'t "my~ quan", nhu+ng
cu+' o+? trong cuo^.c, mo+'i hay ca'i ly' nha^'t ddi.nh cu?a no'. No'
cu~ng pha?n a'nh pha^`n na`o ca'i trie^'t ly' "so^'ng dde^? ma` a(n"
ra^'t dda(.c thu` cu?a A' DDo^ng: a(n say me^, a(n he^? ha?, a(n mo^.t
ca'ch ta^.n hu+o+?ng, chu+' kho^ng chi? ddo+n thua^`n thu+o+?ng
thu+'c. DDu+`ng tu+o+?ng dda^y la` mo^.t bie^?u hie^.n "xuo^'ng ca^'p"
cu?a va(n ho'a tho+`i nay, da^n ta ha(`ng nu+?a the^' ky? tru+o+'c
dda~ va^.y. Nguye^~n Huy Tu+o+?ng trong So^'ng ma~i vo+'i thu? ddo^,
co' ke^? ve^` cung ca'ch xa`i pho+? cu?a ngu+o+`i Ha` No^.i tho+`i
xu+a, nhu+ sau: "... Nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i Ha` No^.i suo^'t ddo+`i chi? co'
mo^.t mu.c ddi'ch la` ca'i ba't pho+? buo^?i sa'ng, ho. ddem ha`nh
ta^y, ho. ddem tru+'ng ddi ha`ng pho+? quen, ho. dda'nh da^'u ba't
dde^? ddu+a chan, ho. ho?i ho^` tie^u, ho. ddo`i i't o+'t, ho. xin i't
nu+o+'c be'o, ho. vu`i dda^`u va`o ba't pho+? mo^.t ca'ch tho^ tu.c,
xa^'u xi', ro^`i ho. ra ddi mo^.t ca'ch tu+. ma~n, co' khi co`n khinh
khi?nh vo+'i ngu+o+`i kho^ng sa`nh pho+? nhu+ ho. nu+~a". Di~ nhie^n,
qua nhu+~ng do`ng tre^n, nha` va(n muo^'n dda? ki'ch ca'i tho'i tu.c
trong a(n uo^'ng, nhu+ng pha?i nha^.n ra(`ng, tho'i tu.c a^'y chu+?a
cha('c se~ ma^'t ddi ngay ca? trong tho+`i dda.i Internet na`y.


Su+. pha^n bie^.t giu+~a pho+? ma^.u di.ch va` tu+ nha^n, co' le~ chi?
cha^'m du+'t va`o tho+`i tie^`n kinh te^' thi. tru+o+`ng (theo ddi.nh
hu+o+'ng XHCN). Va`o nhu+~ng na(m dda^`u cu?a tha^.p nie^n 80, co'
mo^.t ddo+n vi. nha` nu+o+'c chi? ba(`ng mo^.t ca?i ca'ch nho? nhoi,
dda~ ga^y tie^'ng vang va` thu hu't kha' ddo^ng kha'ch dde^'n
a(n. Ngu+o+`i ta truye^`n nhau la` o+? cu+?a ha`ng Ga (ga^`n ga Ha`ng
Co?, Ha` No^.i), pho+? nha` nu+o+'c ma` kha' ngon, phu.c vu. kho^ng
dde^'n no^~i na`o, ho+n the^', mo^~i ngu+o+`i mua ddu+o+.c nha^.n
mo^.t ti'ch-ke^ co' so^' thu+' tu+., ai ga(.p pha?i so^' chaun chu.c,
chaun tra(m la` ddu+o+.c the^m thi.t, the^m nu+o+'c be'o Ca'i te^n
"pho+? DDu+o+`ng sa('t" co' tu+` ddo', to^`n ta.i trong va`i na(m,
nhu+ tu+o+.ng tru+ng cho mo^.t thu+' ddo^` "quo^'c doanh", ma` kho^ng
ddie^u tra'c, kho^ng bo^i ba'c, to^`i te^..


Co^'t lo~i cu?a pho+? ngon la` nu+o+'c trong va` ngo.t. The^' thi`
pha?i co' nhie^`u xu+o+ng bo`, ma` nu+o+'c ta ho^`i xu+a kho^ng dda(.c
tru+ng ma^'y o+? pha.m tru` la('m thi.t ca'. Tha`nh thu+?, nhie^`u
ha`ng pho+? chi? no^?i tie^'ng ngon vi` cho la('m mi` chi'nh: ngu+o+`i
ta tha? co^ng khai va`o ba't pho+? ha`ng thi`a bo^.t ngo.t. Du` sao,
dda^y cu~ng la` thu+' ddu+o+.c coi la` xa xi? va`o tho+`i a^'y, ne^n
kho^ng ca^`n ba`n gi` nhie^`u: cu+' the^' na`o ma` cha(?ng ddu+o+.c,
mie^~n ngo.t va` ngon mie^.ng, kho^ng xu+o+ng thi` dda'nh lu+`a ca?m
gia'c ba(`ng thu+' kha'c, co' sao. Nhu+ng sau ddo' i't la^u, la.i co'
nhie^`u ba`i ba'o va` du+ lua^.n ba?o ra(`ng mi` chi'nh ddo^.c, a(n
la('m co' ha.i cho co+ the^? (dda`o dda^u ra ma` la('m! To^i cho
ra(`ng thu+' tuye^n truye^`n na`y cu~ng gio^'ng nhu+ kie^?u rau
muo^'ng bo^? ho+n thi.t bo`, ddu+o+`ng dden (cu?a Quy Ba) to^'t ho+n
ddu+o+`ng tra('ng ma` lu~ "cha^n go^~" tho+`i tru+o+'c nghi~ ra dde^?
la`m di.u ngu+o+`i da^n tru+o+'c nhu+~ng ma(.t ha`ng thie^'u tho^'n),
ne^n la('m ngu+o+`i cu~ng ho?i cho+`n cho+.n. Ai ddo' nghi~ ra ca'ch
thu+? cho ca'c loa.i co' mu`i tanh nhu+ to^m, ca' va`o no^`i ha^`m,
xem sao. Va` dda(.c bie^.t thay, ho. la`m the^' na`o ma` ta kho^ng
tha^'y co' chu't vi. tanh gi` sa^'t, la.i ngo.t va` trong va('t!
Kho^ng bie^'t, nu+o+'c pho+? loa.i a^'y co' ddu+o+.c lie^.t va`o ha.ng
"chi'nh tho^'ng" cu?a o^ng Nguye^~n kho^ng? (Nho+' dda^u vie^'t
dda^'y, Tha.ch Lam co' ke^? - hi`nh nhu+ trong Ha` No^.i ba mu+o+i
sa'u pho^' phu+o+`ng thi` pha?i -, ra(`ng o+? Ha` tha`nh xu+a, co'
mo^.t ha`ng pho+? ga'nh duy nha^'t trong nha` thu+o+ng Phu? Doa~n,
co`n cho ma^'y gio.t ca` cuo^'ng va`o ba't nu+o+'c du`ng. Chu+?a
ne^'m, ne^n to^i kho^ng hi`nh dung ra no^?i mu`i vi. ba't pho+? nhu+
the^', se~ ra sao).


Pho+? chi'nh hie^.u, co' le~ pha?i la` pho+? (xua^'t xu+' tu+`) Ha`
No^.i. Nhu+ng tu+` khi hai mie^`n lu+u tho^ng, tho+`i the^' no^?i
tro^i, pho+? cu~ng bi. lai ta.p ddi nhie^`u la('m. Mo^.t so^' ha`ng
pho+? trong Nam, xu+ng la` Ba('c Ki`, ma` cho ca? rau, gia', ddo^~
he^.t nhu+ hu? tie^'u Sa`i Go`n. Pho+? mo^.t so^' no+i co`n ddu+o+.c
ne^m ca? tu+o+ng, xi` da^`u, ma('m to^m, ra^'t lo^.n xo^.n. Chu+a no'i
gi` dde^'n thu+' pho+? so^'t vang (?) hay tha^'y o+? Ha` tha`nh mo^.t
tho+`i, di'nh la`m gi` chu+~ pho+? va`o dda^y cho bo^i ba'c nhi??
Pho+? he^'t tha`nh thu+' qua` ngon, va` tro+? ne^n mo'n a(n no cu?a
lu~ tru+o+?ng gia? mo+'i. Mo^.t ho^`i, ta.i Ha` No^.i, a(n pho+? sang
la` pha?i dda^.p va`o ddo' va`i qua? tru+'ng, co' the^? mang saun tu+`
nha`, hoa(.c mua the^m o+? hie^.u. La('m ke? ddo`i the^m ma^'y mie^'ng
thi.t ddu+o+.c cha(.t kie^?u "che'm to kho ma(.n" ro^`i ve^nh va'o
ngo^`i a(n tru+o+'c con ma('t tha'n phu.c cu?a dda.i chu'ng. Ro^`i
chuye^.n go.i mo^.t to^ pho+? dda(.c bie^.t, thi.t dda^`y tu' u., cho
con cho' be.c-gie^ pho^'p pha'p ngo^`i le^n ghe^' a(n cu`ng vo+'i
ngu+o+`i, hi`nh nhu+ kho^ng pha?i la` chuye^.n qua' hie^'m hoi o+?
xu+' nga`n na(m va(n va^.t. To^i vo^'n chu? tru+o+ng dda nguye^n trong
a(n uo^'ng no'i chung, va` trong li~nh vu+.c pho+? no'i rie^ng, nhu+ng
va^~n kho^ng chi.u no^?i va` di. u+'ng vo+'i nhu+~ng ti`m to`i, "ca?i
ca'ch" kho^ng pha?i lo^'i kie^?u tre^n.


Nhu+ng cu~ng co' nhu+~ng thu+' "ca?i ca'ch" kha'c, ra^'t dda'ng
ddu+o+.c tho^ng ca?m, bo+?i hoa`n ca?nh nhu+~ng chu? nha^n cu?a
chu'ng, du` no' ddi ngu+o+.c la.i mo.i nguye^n ly' co+ ba?n va` so+
dda(?ng cu?a pho+?. DDo' la` thu+' pho+? co+m, hay co+m pho+?, mo'n
a(n ddu+o+.c lu~ sinh vie^n nghe`o kho' ra^'t u+a thi'ch: chung nhau
bo? ra i't tie^`n, mua nu+o+'c pho+?, tie^.n the^? bo^'c tro^.m chu't
ha`nh xanh, ve^` tro^.n vo+'i co+m ha^?m ki' tu'c xa', xi` su.p hu'p
a(n ro^`i thi nhau khen ngon. Hay nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? ga'nh bi`nh
da^n, phu.c vu. ta^.n no+i ta^.n cho^'n lu~ ho.c tro` va`o nhu+~ng
dde^m ma^'t ddie^.n, lu'c a^'y, mo.i thu+' ba'nh pho+?, nu+o+'c du`ng,
ha`nh, rau tho+m, nu+o+'c ma('m, tu+o+ng o+'t, da^'m ddu+o+.c ddo^?
u.p vo+'i nhau tha`nh mo^.t the^? ta.p-pi'n-lu` (hay dda? bie^n lo^,
theo cu. Vu+o+ng Ho^`ng Se^?n, nghi~a la` tha^.p ca^?m, ta`o lao, ba
la(ng nha(ng), cay xe`, la('m khi ma(.n cha't chu'a, va^.y ma` ai da'm
ba?o la` do+??


Pho+? o+? xu+' Ta^y, do nhu+~ng ddie^`u kie^.n "ky~ thua^.t" nha^'t
ddi.nh, cha('c kho^ng the^? la`m theo nhu+~ng phu+o+ng thu+'c kinh
ddie^?n, va` ngon nhu+ o+? nha`. Pho+? qua^.n 13 Paris, pho+? Cali,
ngu+o+`i khen, ke? che^, to^i chu+a ddu+o+.c ne^'m ne^n kho^ng da'm
la.m ba`n no'i ba^.y. Nhu+ng ngu+o+`i vie^'t ba`i na`y ca?m tha^'y
ra^'t ha`i lo`ng ve^` pho+? o+? xu+' DDo^ng A^u, ddu+o+.c na^'u ta.i
nhu+~ng qua'n a(n ddu+'ng nho nho? ta.i cho^'n cho+. bu'a ta^'t ba^.t,
lam lu~ cu?a ddo^`ng ba`o mi`nh: o+? ddo', ngu+o+`i na^'u pha?i du`ng
ba'nh pho+? kho^, nu+o+'c du`ng co' khi nguo^.i, va` ba't pho+? kho^ng
no'ng mo^.t ca'ch tu+. nhie^n, ma` bo+?i microwave, co' khi thie^'u
ca? nhu+~ng gia vi. phu. tro+. to^'i thie^?u; ngu+o+`i a(n du`ng ba't,
thi`a va` di~a nhu+.a, mo^.t la^`n ro^`i bo?. The^' ma` mo^~i la^`n
thu+o+?ng thu+'c no', to^i va^~n bu`i ngu`i nhu+ ddu.ng cha.m va`o
mo^.t ma?nh que^ hu+o+ng.


(co`n tie^'p)
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