"Sorry, sir, I am afraid I cannot let you get on this flight without a transit visa."
"What do you mean?! Two weeks ago, I flew from New York through London to Istanbul without a transit visa!"
"I am afraid that they made a mistake."
"A mistake? No one told me that I need a transit visa just to change plane in London!"
"I am sorry sir, but I am afraid you have to get a transit visa first. Please go to the ticket office and they will reissue you a ticket."
"!@)(*#)$*)(#)(#$$#"
So here I was, at 8:30 AM in the morning of August 29 2001, standing in front of British Airway's check-in counter, talking with a BA agent. It was the last day of my two-week long trip in Turkey and I was suppose to board on a 8:45 AM flight back to New York and eventually I would be back in Madison, Wisconsin, before the start of the fall semester.
It is very hard to ask for perfection in this imperfect world. However, if there were such a thing as perfection, my trip in Turkey was as close to that as it could possibly be -- except the fact that at this very moment British Airway, along with the British Government, seemed to be in the process of messing up my near perfect vacation. Somehow, at that instance I made up my mind that I would not let them messing up my trip and I would leave Istanbul on the date as I had originally planned.
My flight from New York arrived at Heathrow in the early hour of August 15. Somehow, three or four other international flights managed to arrive precisely at the same minutes at the same terminal. Now imagine this: five Boeing 747 jumbo jets, arriving at the same time, unload hoards of people into this dinky little terminal that is serviced by buses and the people had no idea which bus to take and which terminal they should go. It was chaotic. Since I had two hours before my connecting flight to Istanbul, I was not as worried as some of my fellow passengers are. Furthermore I understood why the British use the word queue to refer to waiting in a line -- because the line could be very long!
As my flight approached Istanbul, I can see the coast line of the city as well as the urban development going on all over the city. As I found out later on, the population of Istanbul is between 12 and 15 million and that makes it one of the top ten cities in the world (the entire Turkey, on the other hand, only has around 65 million people.) In addition, it is probably one of the few cities in the world that spans over two continents.
After I went through the custom, I was greeted by my officemate Tevfik and his father Mustafa. Tevfik and I study at the same university and he came back a week ago to spend some time with family before heading back to school. Although Tevfik is taller than his father, his father seems to be much stronger build than Tevfik. When I commented this to Tevfik, he confirmed my observation -- his father used to be the wrestling champion of Turkey!
I had my first Turkish meal with Tevfik's family and it was an eye-opening experience. While Tevfik took me to meet his friend, his mother, a courteous, warm-hearted lady in her fifties, cook the entire family a sumptuous meal. And she does this everyday! Later on, as I found out more about Turkish culture, it appears to me that in most family, women do most of the family chores while men are responsible for supporting the family. This is not an uncommon thing in many part of the world. China, not until recently, had a similar familiar structure. More on this later, but let me now focus on the subject of food again.
By the time we got back from the short excursion, the dinner was all ready, sitting quietly on the table, waiting to be devoured by my hungry stomach. The dinner consists of bread, a staple of every Turkish meal; ayran, a drink whose main ingredients are yogurt and milk and may require an adventurous mind to get used to it, but it becomes one of my favorites immediately -- to everyone's surprise; a chicken dish and a lamb dish; Dolmas -- stuffed grape leaves; salad, and soup. It was a treat. Although I haven't learnt any Turkish yet, I immediately understood what I was supposed to do and I fulfilled my duty faithfully and laboriously -- from that meal on, I was always the last person who would leave the table, regardless of which meal. And this apparently made a good impression on the mother and every meal I am getting more food on my plate. Everyone was happy.
Copyright Hao Wangİ 2001