Eat, Pray, Love: One Woman's Search for Everything Across Italy, India and Indonesia

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I wish Giovanni would kiss me.

Oh, but there are so many reasons why this would be a terrible idea. To begin with, Giovanni is ten years younger than I am, andólike most Italian guys in their twentiesóhe still lives with his mother. These facts alone make him an unlikely romantic partner for me, given that I am a professional American woman in my mid-thirties, who has just come through a failed marriage and a devastating, interminable divorce, followed immediately by a passionate love affair that ended in sickening heartbreak. This loss upon loss has left me feeling sad and brittle and about seven thousand years old. Purely as a matter of principle I wouldnít inflict my sorry, busted-up old self on the lovely, unsullied Giovanni. Not to mention that I have finally arrived at that age where a woman starts to question whether the wisest way to get over the loss of one beautiful brown-eyed young man is indeed to promptly invite another one into her bed. This is why I have been alone for many months now. This is why, in fact, I have decided to spend this entire year in celibacy.

To which the savvy observer might inquire: ìThen why did you come to Italy?î

To which I can only replyóespecially when looking across the table at handsome Giovannió ìExcellent question.î

Giovanni is my Tandem Exchange Partner. That sounds like an innuendo, but unfortunately itís not. All it really means is that we meet a few evenings a week here in Rome to practice each otherís languages. We speak first in Italian, and he is patient with me; then we speak in English, and I am patient with him. I discovered Giovanni a few weeks after Iíd arrived in Rome, thanks to that big Internet cafÈ at the Piazza Barbarini, across the street from that fountain with the sculpture of that sexy merman blowing into his conch shell. He (Giovanni, that isónot the merman) had posted a flier on the bulletin board explaining that a native Italian speaker was seeking a native English speaker for conversational language practice. Right beside his appeal was another flier with the same request, word-for-word identical in every way, right down to the typeface. The only difference was the contact information. One flier listed an e-mail address for somebody named Giovanni; the other introduced somebody named Dario. But even the home phone number was the same.

Using my keen intuitive powers, I e-mailed both men at the same time, asking in Italian, ìAre you perhaps brothers?î

It was Giovanni who wrote back this very provocativo message: ìEven better. Twins!î

Yesómuch better. Tall, dark and handsome identical twenty-five-year-old twins, as it turned out, with those giant brown liquid-center Italian eyes that just unstitch me. After meeting the boys in person, I began to wonder if perhaps I should adjust my rule somewhat about remaining celibate this year. For instance, perhaps I could remain totally celibate except for keeping a pair of handsome twenty-five-year-old Italian twin brothers as lovers. Which was slightly reminiscent of a friend of mine who is vegetarian except for bacon, but nonetheless ... I was already composing my letter to Penthouse:

In the flickering, candlelit shadows of the Roman cafÈ, it was impossible to tell whose hands were caressóBut, no.

No and no.

I chopped tvhe fantasy off in mid-word. This was not my moment to be seeking romance and (as day follows night) to further complicate my already knotty life. This was my moment to look for the kind of healing and peace that can only come from solitude.

Anyway, by now, by the middle of November, the shy, studious Giovanni and I have become dear buddies. As for Darioóthe more razzle-dazzle swinger brother of the twoóI have introduced him to my adorable little Swedish friend Sofie, and how theyíve been sharing their evenings in Rome is another kind of Tandem Exchange altogether. But Giovanni and I, we only talk. Well, we eat and we talk. We have been eating and talking for many pleasant weeks now, sharing pizzas and gentle grammatical corrections, and tonight has been no exception. A lovely evening of new idioms and fresh mozzarella.

Now it is midnight and foggy, and Giovanni is walking me home to my apartment through these back streets of Rome, which meander organically around the ancient buildings like bayou streams snaking around shadowy clumps of cypress groves. Now we are at my door. We face each other. He gives me a warm hug. This is an improvement; for the first few weeks, he would only shake my hand. I think if I were to stay in Italy for another three years, he might actually get up the juice to kiss me. On the other hand, he might just kiss me right now, tonight, right here by my door ... thereís still a chance ... I mean weíre pressed up against each otherís bodies beneath this moonlight ... and of course it would be a terrible mistake ... but itís still such a wonderful possibility that he might actually do it right now ... that he might just bend down ... and ... and ... Nope.

He separates himself from the embrace.

ìGood night, my dear Liz,î he says.

ìBuona notte, caro mio,î I reply.

I walk up the stairs to my fourth-floor apartment, all alone. I let myself into my tiny little studio, all alone. I shut the door behind me. Another solitary bedtime in Rome. Another long nightís sleep ahead of me, with nobody and nothing in my bed except a pile of Italian phrasebooks and dictionaries.

I am alone, I am all alone, I am completely alone.

Grasping this reality, I let go of my bag, drop to my knees and press my forehead against the floor. There, I offer up to the universe a fervent prayer of thanks.

First in English.

Then in Italian.

And thenójust to get the point acrossóin Sanskrit.

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And since I am already down there in supplication on the floor, let me hold that position as I reach back in time three years earlier to the moment when this entire story beganóa moment which also found me in this exact same posture: on my knees, on a floor, praying.

Everything else about the three-years-ago scene was different, though. That time, I was not in Rome but in the upstairs bathroom of the big house in the suburbs of New York which Iíd recently purchased with my husband. It was a cold November, around three oíclock in the morning. My husband was sleeping in our bed. I was hiding in the bathroom for something like the forty-seventh consecutive night, andójust as during all those nights beforeóI was sobbing. Sobbing so hard, in fact, that a great lake of tears and snot was spreading before me on the bathroom tiles, a veritable Lake Inferior (if you will) of all my shame and fear and confusion and grief.

I donít want to be married anymore.

I was trying so hard not to know this, but the truth kept insisting itself to me.

I donít want to be married anymore. I donít want to live in this big house. I donít want to have a baby.

But I was supposed to want to have a baby. I was thirty-one years old. My husband and Iówho had been together for eight years, married for sixóhad built our entire life around the common expectation that, after passing the doddering old age of thirty, I would want to settle down and have children. By then, we mutually anticipated, I would have grown weary of traveling and would be happy to live in a big, busy household full of children and homemade quilts, with a garden in the backyard and a cozy stew bubbling on the stovetop. (The fact that this was a fairly accurate portrait of my own mother is a quick indicator of how difficult it once was for me to tell the difference between myself and the powerful woman who had raised me.) But I didnítóas I was appalled to be finding outówant any of these things. Instead, as my twenties had come to a close, that deadline of THIRTY had loomed over me like a death sentence, and I discovered that I did not want to be pregnant. I kept waiting to want to have a baby, but it didnít happen. And I know what it feels like to want something, believe me. I well know what desire feels like. But it wasnít there. Moreover, I couldnít stop thinking about what my sister had said to me once, as she was breast-feeding her firstborn: ìHaving a baby is like getting a tattoo on your face. You really need to be certain itís what you want before you commit.î

How could I turn back now, though? Everything was in place. This was supposed to be the year. In fact, weíd been trying to get pregnant for a few months already. But nothing had happened (aside from the fact thatóin an almost sarcastic mockery of pregnancyóI was experiencing psychosomatic morning sickness, nervously throwing up my breakfast every day). And every month when I got my period I would find myself whispering furtively in the bathroom: Thank you, thank you, thank you, thank you for giving me one more month to live ... Iíd been attempting to convince myself that this was normal. All women must feel this way when theyíre trying to get pregnant, Iíd decided. (ìAmbivalentî was the word I used, avoiding the much more accurate