Mo'n a(n Hue^' o+? Ha` No^.i (ba'o VN)

[Dam Son <son@fermi.phys.washington.edu>]

Tri'ch Tho+`i ba'o kinh te^' VN


"Mo'n co^' ddo^" o+? Thu? Ddo^

L.Dd

O+? Ha` No^.i, qua'n a(n Hue^' kho^ng nhie^`u nhu+ng cu~ng dda~ dde^? la.i
nhie^`u "tie^'ng tho+m", xu+'ng dda'ng vo+'i truye^`n tho^'ng a^?m thu+.c
cu?a cho^'n kinh ky` nga`y xu+a. Thu+.c ra thi` ca'c qua'n a(n Hue^' o+?
Ha` No^.i la`m a(n kha' pha't dda.t, nhu+ng kho^ng bie^'t vi` sao chi? co'
ra^'t i't ngu+o+`i ddu+'ng ra mo+? qua'n. Ca? khu vu+.c na`y chi? co'
mo^.t no+i ba'n "ba'nh my` Hue^'" va` 3 qua'n ba'n co+m Hue^'. Mo+'i co'
the^m mo^.t qua'n nu+~a o+? cuo^'i ddu+o+`ng La'ng Ha.... 

Co^ ba.n ngu+o+`i Hue^' cu+' kha(ng kha(ng la` o+? Hue^' kho^ng co' "ba'nh
my` Hue^'". Va` co^ to? ra va^~n the`m thuo^`ng sau khi "xo+i" go.n mo^.t
sua^'t. chu+`ng co`n a(n ddu+o+.c nu+~a. Tho^i, cu~ng ne^n tho^ng ca?m:
con ngu+o+`i ai cha(?ng ham cu?a la.. Ho+n nu+~a, co^ a^'y la.i kho^ng
bie^'t uo^'ng bia. Chai Tiger to^i uo^'ng co' gia' 14.000 dd, co`n mo^.t
sua^'t ba'nh my` cu~ng co' gia' 14.000 ddo^`ng. Kho^ng ai phung phi' ho+n
trong so^' tie^`n to^i pha?i tra?... 

Trong ho+n 2 trie^.u da^n cu?a dda^'t Ha` No^.i, nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i dda~
tu+`ng ddu+o+.c ne^'m mu`i "ba'nh my` Hue^'" cha('c cu~ng chu+a vu+o+.t
qua con so^' chu.c nghi`n. I't nhu+ the^', co' le~ cu~ng do no' cu~ng
kho^ng ddu+o+.c bi`nh da^n cho la('m. Ho+n nu+~a, ca? tha`nh pho^' chi?
co' mo^~i mo^.t no+i duy nha^'t ba'n thu+' ba'nh my` na`y. 

Ba'nh my`: "dda(.c sa?n" duy nha^'t

So^' 9 Ho`a Ma~, nha` ha`ng Ngo.c Hie^'u. Thu+.c kha'ch pha?i nho'n gia`y
dde^? ddi ve^` phi'a ba`n cu?a mi`nh. Kho^ng co' no+i na`o ma` mo+~
ddu+o+.c du`ng dde^?... bo^i tro+n ne^`n nha` nhie^`u nhu+ o+? dda^y!
Cho^'c cho^'c la.i co' ngu+o+`i be^ cha?o thu+'c a(n cha.y cha.y ve`o qua.
Mo+~ no'ng ba('n tanh ta'ch. May ma` mo+'i dda^y dda~ co' mo^.t ha`ng
tha?m ba(`ng nhu+.a co' gai ddu+o+.c tra?i do.c lo^'i ddi. Dda^y co' le~
la` sa'ng kie^'n quy' ba'u sau nhu+~ng vu. kha'ch bi. te' e^ mo^ng vi`
ne^`n nha` qua' tro+n. Va` no' cu~ng la`m ca'c ca^.u bu+ng be^ ye^n ta^m,
kho?i tru+o+.t cha^n ddo^?  cha?o thu+'c a(n le^n dda^`u kha'ch! 

Vo+'i mo^.t die^.n ti'ch chu+`ng 70m2, khoa?ng 25 chie^'c ba`n ddu+o+.c
ke^ chen chu'c. Kho^ng khi' o+? no+i dda^y bao gio+` cu~ng tho+m nga^.y
va` a^'m a'p. Mo^.t co^ nha^n vie^n tie^'p thi. cu?a ha~ng bia Tiger cho
bie^'t la` tu+` 7 gio+` sa'ng dde^'n 11 gio+` dde^m, nha` ha`ng ga^`n nhu+
lu'c na`o cu~ng ddo^ng nghe.t kha'ch. Co' ca'i la. la` ca'i thu+' ddo^`
a(n na`y ho+.p ca? mu`a he` la^~n mu`a ddo^ng, ne^n nha` ha`ng cu+' the^'
ma` "lie^n tu.c pha't trie^?n". Cha(?ng co' the^m mo^.t ddo^'i thu? na`o
ca.nh tranh nu+~a, vi` va^.y sua^'t a(n o+? dda^y cu+' ca`ng nga`y ca`ng
ngo't ddi, du` gia' tie^`n va^~n cu+' ta(ng le^n. Trong ca'i cha?o no^ng
choe`n, co' the^? dde^'m ddu+o+.c bo^'n mie^'ng thi.t bo`, mo^.t cu.c
thi.t ba(m co+~ ba(`ng na('m tay con ni't, hai qua? tru+'ng o^'p la, ta'm
mie^'ng khoai ta^y, hai mie^'ng ca` chua... Vo+'i ngu+o+`i "xo+i" kho?e,
thi` ma^'y thu+' ddo' tha^.t cha(?ng nha(`m nho` gi`. Cha(?ng tra'ch
kho^ng pha?i chi? co^ ba.n to^i-ngu+o+`i be' xi'u- a(n he^'t nhu+~ng hai
sua^'t, ma` nhie^`u ngu+o+`i cu~ng dda~ la`m tu+o+ng tu+.. Co' "o^ng Ta^y"
co`n "cho+i" he^'t ca? ba cha?o. 

Co+m Hue^': dda^`m a^'m bi`nh da^n

To^m chua co' the^? la` mo'n khoa'i kha^?u nha^'t ddo^'i vo+'i nhie^`u
ngu+o+`i nghie^.n mo'n a(n Hue^'. Nhu+~ng con to^m va`ng o'ng trong thu+'
dung di.ch cu~ng va`ng o'ng, ddu'ng ra chi?  da`nh rie^ng cho mo'n thi.t
luo^.c. o+? Vie^.t Nam ta, co' le~ to^m chua Hue^' thuo^.c loa.i dde^.
nha^'t thie^n ha.. Cha(?ng tra'ch cu. Nguye^~n Tua^n sa`nh a(n, nga`y xu+a
cu+' da(.n ba.n va`o Hue^' pha?i mua ba(`ng ddu+o+.c cho mo^.t lo., ve^`
la`m mo'n thi.t luo^.c chie^u dda~i ba.n be`. (A(n mo'n na`y, pha?i co'
ba'nh dda, thi.t cha^n gio`, rau so^'ng, chuo^'i xanh, gia' so^'ng va`
khe^' chua cuo^'n la.i nhu+ ca'i nem dde^? cha^'m. Dda^`u lu+o+~i cu+'
the^' ma` cong le^n vi` vi. cay cu?a o+'t, me^`m ra vi` ca'i bu`i bu`i,
ngo.t ngo.t cu?a gia' so^'ng, vi. cha't cu?a chuo^'i, vi. chua cu?a khe^'
xanh...). 

Qua'n Hue^' o+? Ha` No^.i kha' ddo^ng kha'ch. Co' ngu+o+`i dda~ tro+?
tha`nh "con nghie^.n", buo^?i tru+a na`o cu~ng la(?ng la(.ng go.i to^
co+m, khu'c ca' kho to^. ngo^`i a(n. La.i co' ngu+o+`i go.i mo^.t to^ co+m
he^'n, hoa(.c to^ bu'n gio` heo ngo^`i ri? ra? uo^'ng ru+o+.u thuo^'c.
Nhu+ng tho^ng thu+o+`ng, ngu+o+`i ta thu+o+`ng dde^'n co' ddo^i, hoa(.c
ddi tu+`ng to^'p da(m ba ngu+o+`i. Mie^'ng ngon cu+' lu+~ng thu+~ng tha^'m
qua lo+`i truye^`n mie^.ng, ngu+o+`i no. da^~n ngu+o+`i kia to+'i
thu+o+?ng thu+'c. Ba` chu? qua'n co+m Hue^' o+? 22A La'ng Ha. cho bie^'t,
dda~ nhie^`u la^`n ddi la`m tie^.c cho ca'c dda'm xa' quanh Ha` No^.i.
Su+. phong phu' cu?a ba?ng thu+.c ddo+n tha^.t xu+'ng dda'ng dde^? la`m
ba^'t cu+' mo^.t bu+~a tie^.c linh ddi`nh na`o, tu+` A dde^'n Z theo
kie^?u nga`y xu+a. Tu+` nhu+~ng mo'n a(n ddo+n gia?n nhu+ ca' nu.c, ca'
ngu+` kho to^., ga` ra'n, no^.m hoa chuo^'i va` nem lu.i dde^'n nhu+~ng
mo'n cao ca^'p nhu+ la^?u ca', la^?u bo` ro^`i bo` nhu'ng da^'m.  Ca'c
loa.i ba'nh cu~ng nhie^`u kho^ng ke'm trong nhu+~ng "sa'ch a(n": ba'nh
be`o, ba'nh khoa'i, ba'nh bo^.t lo.c... 

Ba` chu? qua'n va` ca? ma^'y co^ phu.c vu. o+? dda^y dde^`u no'i tie^'ng
Hue^'! Cu~ng hay, kha'ch ngo^`i a(n o+? Ha` No^.i ma` cu+' ngo+~ mi`nh
ddang o+? Hue^' xa xa(m. A(n co+m Hue^', nghe tie^'ng ngu+o+`i xu+' Hue^',
tu+o+?ng ddo+n gia?n the^' tho^i nhu+ng co' ma^'y ngu+o+`i da^n xu+' Ba('c
co' ddu+o+.c, ne^'u kho^ng pha?i la` ngu+o+`i co' tie^`n? No'i chung,
kha'ch dde^'n a(n co+m Hue^' dde^`u la` ngu+o+`i ki'n tie^'ng. Ca'i kho^ng
khi' dda^`m a^'m cu?a qua'n a(n du+o+`ng nhu+ tha^'m va`o thu+.c kha'ch,
la`m cho ho. a(n uo^'ng nho? nhe. ho+n. Ho.a cha(ng, chi? co' tie^'ng
xuy't xoa vi` cay cu?a ma^'y ba`, ma^'y co^ kho^ng quen a(n o+'t.