Sa(n ba('t chuo^.t o+? VN

[Dam Son <son@fermi.phys.washington.edu>]

Hi,

Nha^n ca'c ba'c ddang ba`n ve^` chuye^.n a^?m thu+.c, co' ba`i na`y tre^n
ba'o Ha` No^.i Mo+'i 23/3 go~ la.i ca'c ba'c ddo.c cho vui\.

So+n.

		Nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i "S.B.C"

Xe't ve^` mo^.t go'c ddo^. na`o ddo' thi` chuo^.t cu~ng la` mo^.t thu+'
cu+o+'p. Lu~ cu+o+'p ddo^`ng. Sa(n chuo^.t, thi.t chuo^.t thoa.t nghe
tu+o+?ng nhu+ mo+'i la. nhu+ng thu+.c dda~ co' truye^`n tho^'ng la^u
ddo+`i o+? kha' nhie^`u vu`ng que^ Vie^.t Nam. Nga`y nay, sa(n chuo^.t
kho^ng chi? mang ti'nh truye^`n tho^'ng ba?o ve^. mu`a ma`ng ma` co` la`
nghe^` chi'nh, mang la.i nguo^`n thu nha^.p dda'g ke^? cho nhie^`u gia
ddi`nh o+? no^ng tho^n.

Chu'ng to^i ti`m ga(.p ba'c U+'ng Va(n Pha'o, tho^n Xua^n Ca^`u, xa~
Nghi~a Tru., huye^.n My~ Va(n, Ha?i Hu+ng, theo lo+`i gio+'i thie^.u cu?a
ba` con: "Sa(n chuo^.t o+? vu`ng na`y thi` pha?i ho?i o^ng Pha'o, mo^.t
trong nhu+~ng ba^.c to^? su+ dda^'y!". Ba'c Pha'o, tuo^?i dda~ ngoa.i 60
vo+'i da'ng ngu+o+`i tha^'p, kho?e, nu+o+'c da na^u sa(n cha('c, nu. 
cu+o+`i tu+o+i thu+o+`ng tru+.c khie^'n ngu+o+`i la^`n dda^`u ga(.p cu~ng
de^~ da`ng nha^.n tha^'y dda^y la` mo^.t la~o no^ng bo^.c tru+.c, vui
ti'nh va` u+a hoa.t ddo^.ng.

Buo^?i sa'ng so+'m, vu+`a luo^n tay chua^?n bi. ddo^` nghe^` ba'c vu+`a
no'i chuye^.n vo+'i chu'ng to^i ve^` nguo^`ng go^'c nghe^` sa(n chuo^.t:
"To^i na(m nay 61 tuo^?i\. Ho^`i co`n nho? ddu+o+.c bie^'t bo^' to^i la`m
nghe^` tu+` khi mo+'i lo+'n. O^ng no^.i to^i cu~ng va^.y, tha^.t kho'
bie^'t gia ddi`nh to^i ba('t dda^`u nghe^` na`y tu+` bao gio+`." Co' le~
mo.i vie^.c ba('t dda^` tu+` tu+ tu+o+?ng "cho+i ma` la`m, la`m ma` cho+i"
cu?a ngu+o+`i no^ng da^n. Kho^ng rie^ng gi` no+i dda^y ma` o+? mo^.t so^'
ddi.a phu+o+ng kha'c nhu+ Que^' Vo~ - Ha` Ba('c hay Tu+` Lie^m - Ha` No^.i
tru+o+'c dda^y thu+o+`ng co' nhu+~ng nga`y "ho^.i chuo^.t". Tie^'ng la`
"Ho^.i" nhu+ng thu+.c cha^'t la` nhu+~ng nga`y sa(n chuo^.t ta^.p the^?
nha(`m tie^u die^.t, ha.n che^' so^' lu+o+.ng chuo^.t ddo^`ng dde^? ba?o
ve^. mu`a ma`ng. Thi.t chuo^.t ddu+o+.c ba` con mang ve^` che^' bie^'n
tha`nh nhie^`u mo'n a(n ngon, bo^?, ca^`u ky`, mang ti'nh truye^`n tho^'ng
cu?a ddi.a phu+o+ng ma` chi? ca^`n nghe qua ca'ch che^' bie^'n dda~
khie^'n cho ngu+o+`i ta co' ca?m gia'c tha^'y the`m muo^'n. Trong ca'c
di.p gio^~ te^'t, hie^'u hy?, ma^m co^~ ma` thie^'u mo'n thi.t chuo^.t
thi` chu+a tha`nh co^~.

Dde^? co' the^? la`m "tho+. chuo^.t" tha^.t cu~ng kho^ng dde^'n no^~i kho'
kha(n, va^'t va? cho la('m. Thu+o+`ng thi` ca'c "tho+." chi? ca^`n chua^?n
bi. tru+o+'c mo^.t chie^'c thuo^?ng sa('t che^' tu+` mo^.t ddoa.n o^'ng
nu+o+'c co+~ co^? tay, va`i ba chie^'c ro. nho?, mo^.t ga`u ta't nu+o+'c,
mo^.t xe dda.p va` mo^.t chu' cho'. Quan tro.ng nha^'t chi'nh la` vie^.c
cho.n cho'. Dde^? co' ddu+o+.c mo^.t chu' cho' sa(n u+ng y', ngu+o+`i
tho+. chuo^.t co' khi pha?i ma^'t ha`ng na(m tro+`i su.c sa.o, ti`m kie^'m
kha('p ca'c cho+. que^, la^`n dde^'n tu+`ng nha` co' loa.i cho' ta mo+'i
dde?, xem xe't lu+.a cho.n tha^.t ky~ ti`m cho ddu+o+.c mo^.t con ddu'ng
vo+'i tie^u chua^?n:

   "Ba`n cha^n qua? quy't bo^? ddo^i
    Ddo^i ma('t la' ta'o kho^ng sa^u, kho^ng lo^`i,
    Ca'nh mu~i da^m da^'p mo^` ho^i
    Lu+ng thon tha('t dda'y, ca'i dduo^i vo`i dda`n"

Ai cu~ng bie^'t ta^m ti'nh, ti`nh ca?m cu?a cho' hay ddu+o+.c the^? hie^.n
ro~ nha^'t o+? ca'i dduo^i\. Ca'i dduo^i "vo`i dda`n" nghi~a la` dduo^i
cho' luo^n pha?i ve^?nh ngu+o+.c nhu+ vo`i dda`n ba^`u\. Nhu+~ng chu' cho'
co' dduo^i kie^?u na`y thu+o+`ng ra^'t nhanh nhe.n pha?n u+'ng to^'t va`
tho^ng minh. Ba`n cha^n cho' pha?i co' dde^.m thi.t da`y, cha('c cha('n
gio^'ng nhu+ ba`n cha^n su+ tu+?, chu+'ng to? co' bo^. vo' to^'t, khi
cha.y tre^n ddi.a hi`nh go^` ghe^` kho^ng bi. to`e ba`n, xoa.c mo'ng nhu+
nhu+~ng con cho' kha'c. Nhu+~ng con cho' quy' na`y thu+o+`ng ra^'t kho'
ga(.p, nhu+ng de^~ nha^.n vi` chu'ng luo^n to? ra no^?i tro^.i ho+n so
vo+'i nhu+~ng con cu`ng lu+'a\. Vo+'i ba?n ti'nh to` mo`, nhanh nhe.n,
ngay tu+` be' chu'ng dda~ luo^n loa(ng qua(ng hi't ca'i no., ngu+?i ca'i
kia, ca'nh mu~i dden lu'c na`o cu~ng da^m da^'p u+o+'t, dduo^i ve^?nh vo`i
dda`n va` co' ca(.p ma('t "bie^'t no'i"

Cho.n ddu+o+.c cho' to^'t ro^`i, ngu+o+`i tho+. cu~ng pha?m ma^'t i't
nha^'t nu+?a na(m tro+`i hua^'n luye^.n cho' ba(`ng ca'ch cho ddi "ca(.p"
vo+'i ca'c chu' cho' no`i dda`n anh trong nhu+~ng la^`n ddi sa(n. Khi dda~
tha.o nghe^`, cho' mo+'i ddu+o+.c ta'ch ddi rie^ng. Lu'c na`y, ngu+o+`i
tho+. chi? vie^. cho cho' ra ddo^`ng, chua^?n bi. sa(~n ro., thuo^?ng
dda`o, ga^`u ta't nu+o+'c va` cho+` ddo+.i\. Khi ddu+o+.c tha? ra ddo^`ng,
cho' se~ dda'nh ho+i ti`m hang, ne^'u hang co' chuo^.t, cho' ma'ch chu?
ba(`ng ca'ch su?a, ca`o lie^n tu.c. Tho+. sa(n cho' na`o ma` cha(?ng nho+'
hai ca^u: "Lo^~ e^'ch thi` nha(~n hai be^n, nha(~n du+o+'i la` ra('n,
nha(~n tre^n la` ca^`y!". Tre^n co+ so+? quan sa't, pha'n ddoa'n ta.i
hie^.n tru+o+`ng, ngu+o+`i tho+. ddo+m sa(~n o+? mo^~i nga'ch mo^.t
chie^'c ro. tren nho?, ro^`i ba('t dda^`u ta't nu+o+'c. Ly` ddo`n nha^'t
thi` cu~ng chi? sau va`i chu.c phu't la` chuo^.t bi. sa(.c nu+o+'c, tranh
nhau cha.y tu'a ra thoe ca'c nga'ch hang va`... chu to.t va`o ca'c ro. tre
dda~ ddo+m sa(~n. Mo^~i hang chuo^.t dde^`u co ra^'t nhie^`u nga'ch,
nhu+~ng nga'ch nga^`m, nga'ch phu. na`y thu+o+`ng ddu+o+.c ngu.y trang
ra^'t ki'n dda'o, co' khi sa^u dde^'n 3-4 me't. Kho^ng pha?i lu'c na`o
ngu+o+`i tho+. cu~ng co' the^? ti`m he^'t ddu+o+.c ca'c lo^~ nga'ch dde^? 
dda(.t ro., hoa(.c gia? co' khi ro. bi. le^.ch, tu.t... chuo^.t xo^?ng ro. 
vo.t ra ngoa`i, ma` chuo^.t dda~ thoa't ddu+o+.c ra ngoa`i ddo^`ng thi`... 
Lu'c na`y, ta mo+'i tha^'y ddu+o+.c su+. nhanh nhe.n, du~ng ma~nh cu?a
cho' sa(n. Ta^'t ca? ca'c loa.i chuo^.t, cho du` lo+'n, ly` lo+.m nhu+
chuo^.t ddu~i hay ma ma~nh nhu+ chuo^.t dda`n, chuo^.t nha` cu~ng kho'
lo`ng thoa't kho?i ha`m ra(ng cha('c nho.n cu?a chu' cho' sa(n vo^'n sa(~n
thie^n ti'nh. Ba^'t ky` ddi.a hi`nh na`o, du` la` dda^'t a?i ga^.p ghe^`nh
hay bo+` bu.i dda^`y gai nho.n, chi? trong mu+o+i la(m ti'ch ta('c la` con
chuo^.t dda~ na(`m go.n trong ha`m ra(ng cu?a chu' cho'. Ca'c "tho+." chi?
ddi sa(n trong nu+?a nga`y, tu+` sa'ng so+'m dde^'n qua' tru+a la` pha?i
ve^` la`m chuo^.t qua kha^u so+ che^', cho vu+`a ki.p buo^?i cho+.
chie^`u\. Tu`y nga`y i't nga`y nhie^`u, trung bi`nh mo^~i nga`y ba'c Pha'o
va` chu' cho' cu+ng cu?a mi`nh ba('t ddu+o+.c khoa?ng 15-20 con ddu? ca'c
loa.i: Cho^.t ddo^`ng bu.ng tra('ng dduo^i nga('n, chuo^.t nha` lo^ng
va`ng ke^.nh, dduo^i da`i, tai mo?ng khoa?ng 4-5 con/1kg; chuo^.t ddu~i
dda^`u to, tai to, dduo^i da`i, lo^ng xa'm, co' khi chi? 2 con/1kg. Vo+'i
gia' hie^.n tho+`i, thi.t chuo^.t ga^`n ba(`ng thi.t lo+.n loa.i vu+`a
(15.000 dd - 16000 dd/1kg). Thu nha^.p bi`nh qua^n cu?a tho+. tu+` 40000 -
60000 dd mo^.t nga`y; dda^y cu~ng la` con so^' ha^'p da^~n ddo^'i vo+'i
nhie^`u ngu+o+`i\.

Ti'nh rie^n trong tho^n Xua^n Ca^`u cu~ng co' to+'i ho+n chu.c tho+.
chuye^n nghie^.p. Vo+'i ba'c Pha'o, mo^~i nga`y dda.p xe 40-50 kilo^me't
sa(n chuo^.t, chu? ye^'u la` dde^? tie^u khie^?n cho ddo+~ "ye^'u
ngu+o+`i" va` kho?i mang tie^'ng bo? que^n "nghe^` to^?". Co' nhu+~ng
la^`n o^ng dda.p xe ddu+o+`ng tru+o+`ng 160 kilo^me't mo^.t nga`y dda^~y
dda`, tu+` nha` ra` Ho`n Gai dde^? ddi ba'n ra('n. Tha^.t dda'ng kha^m
phu.c cho su+. de?o dai cu?a o^ng la~o ngoa`i 60 tuo^?i na`y\. Vo+'i lo+'p
tho+. tre? ba^y gio+` thi` kha'c. Ho. ddi sa(n chuo^.t ba(`ng xe ga('n
ma'y, chu? ye^'u la` ca'c loa.i xe cu~, re? tie^`n. Kho^ng ha(?n vi`
kho^ng ddu? tie^`n mua xe mo+'i ma` vi` "ddi cho no' xo^ bo^`, co' vu+'t
la(n lo'c o+? dda^u cu~ng ddo+~ nga.i". Dda^y ddo' dda~ co' ca'c gia
ddi`nh so^'ng kha' da^`n, xa^y ddu+o+.c nha` ta^`ng nho+` chuo^.t va` ca'c
di.ch vu. ha`nh nghe^` co^? truye^`n na`y\.

Cu+' mo^~i buo^?i chie^`u dde^'n, ca'i cho+. nho? o+? dda^`u tho^n la.i
nho^.n nhi.p ha(?n le^n va` ta^'t nhie^n, kho^ng the^? thie^'u ca'c da^y
thi.t chuo^.t tra('ng no~n ddu+o+.c ba`y tre^n nhu+~ng chie^'c me.t xinh
tra?i la' chuo^'i tu+o+i, tro^ng ra^'t da^n da~ va` quye^'n ru~. Quye^'n
ru~ tru+o+'c tie^n bo+?i ca'i la. va` sau nu+~a bo+?i hu+o+ng vi. nga^.y
tho+m, dda^.m dda` ddo^`ng que^ cu?a thi.t chuo^.t. Bo+?i va^.y, cu+'
mo^~i chie^`u thu+' ba?y, chie^`u chu? nha^.t, thu+.c kha'ch o+? ca'c
tha`nh pho^', thi. xa~ cu`ng xe ma'y, o^to^ to?a ra ca'c ne?o cho+. que^
quanh vu`ng mua thi.t chuo^.t ve^` thu+o+?ng thu+'c. Co' ngu+o+`i buo^n
dde^'n ta^.n ca'c nha` tho+. sa(n dda(.t co.c tru+o+'c, ddu'ng he.n ddem
xe ve^` cho+? ddi\. Thi` ra, chuo^.t kho^ng co`n la` mo'n a(n rie^ng cu?a
no^ng da^n nu+~a, ngay khi tre^n thi. tru+o+`ng tu+. do cha(?ng thie^'u
thu+' cao lu+o+ng my~ vi. na`o, cu?a ngon va^.t la. na`o cu?a kha('p the^'
gio+'i\. 

Mo^.t la^`n, o+? ddo^`ng ba(`ng so^ng Cu+?u Long, qua~ng ga^`n pha` My~
Thua^.n, chu'ng to^i dda~ ghe' va`o a(n tru+a ta.i mo^.t qua'n chuye^n
che^' bie^'n ca'c mo'n dda(.c sa?n thi.t chuo^.t. Qua'n tuy nho? nhu+ng
la.i ra^'t ddo^ng kha'ch. Hi`nh nhu+ mu`i tho+m xa`o na^'u cu?a qua'n na`y
"da^.y" ho+n nhu+~ng qua'n pha che^' ba(`ng thi.t bo`, lo+.n, de^, ga`.
Trong mo^.t ca'i lo^`ng sa('t ddan lu+o+'i, nhu+~ng chu' chuo^.t ddo^`ng
ddang ru'm mi`nh, giu+o+ng ma('t. Chuo^.t o+? vu`ng na`y thu+o+`ng to
ga^'p ru+o+~i vu`ng ddo^`ng ba(`ng Ba('c Bo^., co' le~ vi` ha.t lu'a du+
da^.t ho+n, ca'nh ddo^`ng ba't nga't ho+n, tha? su+'c cho chu'ng tung
hoa`nh, ra^'t kho' bi. con ngu+o+`i sa(n ba('t.

Thi.t chuo^.t luo^.c co' ma`u tra('ng no~n, mi.n ma`ng, cha(.t mie^'ng to,
a(n ke`m la' sa?, la' chanh, cha^'m muo^'i tie^u ra^'t tuye^.t. Mo.n
nhu+.a ma^.n vo+'i rie^`ng me? co`n ngon ho+n thi.t ca^`y, vi` ha^`u nhu+
thi.t chuo^.t hoa`n toa`n la` na.c. Na.c ho'a trong cha(n nuo^i gia su'c,
trong mo'n a(n ha`ng nga`y ddang la` xu hu+o+'ng chung cu?a the^' gio+'i
hie^.n nay\. Mo'n chuo^.t ha^'p ca'ch thu?y, nho^`i la' tho+m, gia vi.,
tha('t ra nhu+ nhu+~ng khoanh gio` nho? cha('c, vu+`a bu`i vu+`a ngo.t,
la`m ngu+o+`i a(n kho^ng de^~ nga'n.

Tuy nhie^n, chuo^.t cu~ng la` con va^.t trung gian truye^`n be^.nh di.ch
sang cho ngu+o+`i, chu? ye^'u la` loa.i chuo^.t nha` lo^ng va`ng, dduo^i
da`i, tai mo?ng. Chuo^.t ddo^`ng thu+o+`ng lo^ng xa'm, bu.ng tra('ng,
dduo^i nga('n va` ma^.p. Nguy hie^?m nha^'t la` chuo^.t chu, chuo^.t
co^'ng. Vi` thu+'c a(n cu?a lu~ chuo^.t na`y la` mu`n ba~ hu+~u co+, xa'c
sinh va^.t tho^'i, ne^n co+ the^? chu'ng chu+'a dda^`y vi khua^?n ga^y
be^.nh. Co`n thu+'c a(n chi'nh cu?a chuo^.t ddo^`ng la.i la` ca'c loa.i
ha.t, cu?, ngu~ co^'c. Cho ne^n, thi.t chuo^.t ddo^`ng gia`u cha^'t dda.m,
ngon, tho+m va` kha' sa.ch. Nhu+ng kho^ng the^? coi ddo' la` mo'n a(n
thu+o+`ng xuye^n cu?a con ngu+o+`i, ma(.c du` nhie^`u ngu+o+`i la^.p
lua^.n: "A(n thi.t chuo^.t la` go'p pha^`n ba?o ve^. sa?n xua^'t". Vo+'i
go'c nhi`n na`y, nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i tho+. sa(n ba('t chuo^.t nhu+ o^ng U+'ng
Va(n Pha'o hoa`n toa`n ddu+o+.c coi la` tho+. sa(n ba('t cu+o+'p ddo^`ng.
Vo+i y' nghi~a a^'y, chu'ng ta, dda(.c bie^.t la` nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i no^ng
da^n hai su+o+ng mo^.t na('ng, cha^n la^'m tay bu`n dda('p ne^n mu`a ma`ng
bo^.i thu, cu~ng xin ddu+o+.c hai la^`n ca?m o+n, bie^'t o+n ddo^.i ngu~
ddo^ng dda?o tho+. "SBC"!

Thanh Nha`n, 1997
Ddo^~ Minh Hoa`ng.