A taste of VN: VNmese food festival in Manila

[Dam Son <son@fermi.phys.washington.edu>]

A taste of Vietnam 

BusinessWorld (Manila)

Although The Brasserie of the Mandarin Oriental Manila functions as the
hotel's coffeeshop, it is sometimes dressed up for the occasional food
promotion. These days, the staff is fully garbed in traditional brightly
colored silk ao dai costumes as The Brasserie hosts a Vietnamese food
festival, which runs until April 30. 

The business-like atmosphere of the Makati power lunch is softened
significantly with the addition of Vietnamese decor and the distinct sound
of musician Nguyen Thi Hai Phuong, who serenades guests with the trung
(bamboo xylophone), dan tranh (16-chord zither), and dan bau (one-chord
zither). The plucking is clear and resonant as it is amplified throughout
the restaurant. 

Unlike the typical Mandarin promotion, which is basically a la carte, the
Vietnamese dishes are arranged in a buffet, side by side the usual
Continental favorites of the restaurant. For instance, one side of the
salad buffet consists of the usual shrimp cocktail, terrines and other
cold appetizers, while the other half is laiden with Vietnamese
specialties. 

The arrangement is reflective of a Vietnamese royal tradition in that
country's central region, which was supposed to go back to the ancient
kingdom of Champa. The royal taste is said to reveal itself in the
preference for many small dishes placed on the table at once. The more
lavish the spread, the wealthier the household. But even the poorer
families are likely to have multiple dishes of simple vegetables. 

This is perhaps the best way to appreciate Vietnamese cuisine - little
portions of a wide variety of choices. 

Vietnamese cuisine is actually a perfect fit to current dining trends. It
can satisfy the soup-and-salad quick-lunch crowd, as well as those
discriminating vegetarians. Its exotic image with contrasting flavors and
varied textures sits well among the adventurous diners. It is also perhaps
one of the healthiest cuisines in the world. 

Food writer Nancy Freeman noted Vietnamese chefs like to refer to their
cooking as the nouvelle cuisine of Asia. "And indeed, with the heavy
reliance on rice, wheat and legumes, abundance of fresh herbs and
vegetables, minimal use of oil, and treatment of meat as a condiment
rather than a main course, Vietnamese food has to be among the healthiest
on the planet," she wrote. 

Although Vietnamese cuisine is marked by distinct regional difference
(basically northern, central and southern), two key features stand out,
Ms. Freeman noted. Like other southeast Asian countries, rice plays an
essential part in the Vietnamese diet. However, the Vietnamese also love
noodles, which they eat for breakfast, lunch or dinner. Noodles are eaten
wet and dry, in soup or beside soup, and are made in different shapes and
thickness of wheat, rice and mung beans. 

The second key feature is that no meal is complete without fresh
vegetables and herbs. A key portion of every meal, regardless of region,
is a platter containing cucumbers, bean threads, slices of hot pepper, and
sprigs of basil, coriander, mint and a number of related herbs found
principally in southeast Asia. 

Vietnamese cuisine developed from a number of factors. The country itself
consists of two great river deltas (the Red River Delta and the Mekong
Delta), which allows it to grow rice and a wide variety of fruits and
vegetables. Historically, the Vietnamese, as a former Chinese colony, has
adopted some Chinese characteristics, especially in the north, which is
closer to the border. The French also lent its culinary expertise to its
former colony. 

But despite years of colonization, Vietnamese food has a character of its
own, particularly in the central and southern areas. The play of flavors
is delicate and the contrast in texture is graceful. Frying is said to be
not as important as simmering, and the magic flavoring is fish sauce or
nuoc mam. 

"Northern cuisine exhibits fewer herbs and vegetables than the other
regions because its climate is less hospitable than that of the Mekong
Delta," Ms. Freeman wrote. "For heat, north Vietnamese cooks rely on black
pepper rather than chilies. Residents also exhibit a particular fondness
for beef, picked up from the Mongolians during their 13th century
invasions. 

"Servings are larger and fewer in the south; and hot chilies replace black
pepper for heat. The profusion of fruit in the area means that sweet fruit
occasionally makes its way into a dish of meat and vegetables.
Preparations are less complex than many of those in the center and the
style of cooking often resembles that of neighboring Cambodia. This is the
part of Vietnam responsible for curries. Once again history influences
cuisine for ancient Angkor, centered in Cambodia, once ruled this portion
of Vietnam." 

The Mandarin buffet is created by a culinary team from Vietnam led by chef
Chau Tan Hiep, who has worked at various hotels in Vietnam such as the
Caravel, Palace and Continental. (The Mandarin does not yet have a hotel
in Vietnam.)

Although Vietnamese food is characterized by its lightness, the variety
available allows one to have a truly full meal. The buffet warrants at
least four visits, one each for salad, soup and dessert, and two for the
main course. 

The more familiar ones on the starter table are the goi cuon, the
Vietnamese spring rolls which have a very thin wrapper and are stuffed
with beef and shrimp. In other Vietnamese restaurants, diners have to roll
these themselves, but at the Mandarin buffet, this task was already done
by the kitchen staff. 

Those who like Thai food will also notice a familiar salad combination -
catfish and mango, or goi xoai ca tre. The Vietnamese version has a lot
more finesse, although the Thai one has a more definite kick. 

One thing noticeable here is the way the vegetables are shredded, which
are really thin and tiny, and the variety of meats, from duck and chicken
to more exotic ingredients like eel and lotus rhizome. The cleansing
effect is probably due to the use of lime juice. 

Next on the agenda is soup. Soup stock in Vietnam features the subtle
blends of a variety of fragrant herbs such as ngo om (a small,
round-leafed herb with a strong citrus flavor) and rau hung (a
small-leafed dark green herb that has a biting flavor), as well as star
anise, ginger and cassia. 

The most popular Vietnamese soup is the pho bo or beef white noodle soup. 

"At mealtimes, noodle stands line the roads where people pull over their
bicycles or, if they are somewhat wealthier, motor scooters for a quick
meal, a shared chat and a cigarette with their co-workers. Three meals a
day of noodles is not uncommon," Ms. Freeman wrote. 

Pho is known in the US as Hanoi Beef Soup and is eaten as either lunch,
dinner, or just an afternoon snack. Traditionally though, in Vietnam, pho
(pronounced like "fuh") is eaten for breakfast. 

There are actually a variety of types to choose from. One can get pho with
meatballs, beef tripe, soft tendon, brisket, and others. But one can
always get it plain, adding the customary "Thai basil," (usually
substituted for with mint leaves in the US), bean sprouts, lemon and lime
juice, plum sauce and jalepeno sauce. 

Pho actually has a lot of nutritional value as it is made from
all-natural, home-grown ingredients. In ancient times, it is said that pho
was given to the sick in order to cure them. The Vietnamese believe that
pho has many beneficial values and is therefore eaten a lot. 

In fact, the Vietnamese can get philosophical about pho, relating it to
everyday life ("Life is a big bowl of pho," an unknown philosopher was
said to have written). 

At the Mandarin, the soup stock is left simmering, and the noodles are set
separately in bowls. 

The main course spread includes very familiar items like swamp cabbage
(kangkong) flavored with garlic, and fried squid. The meat station also
prepares a different version of pork chop (with a sweeter marinade and is
surprisingly not as greasy). 

There are also items such as pork simmered in coconut juice and steamed
chicken with herbs. The variety of ingredients ranges from duck to eel,
done in simple preparations from grilling, frying, stir-frying and
steaming. 

Easily the most popular of these are the crab preparations, notably the
soft-shelled crab cooked with egg (sometimes it is presented with a chili
sauce), and the fried crab with a tamarind sauce (others are wine sauce,
and vinegar). 

If there is a downside to this, it is the dessert. A lot of the Vietnamese
desserts are based on sticky rice (something like the local guinataan) but
using cashew nuts. There is also an agar-agar dessert, shaped like
asparagus spears. But there are the usual Continental desserts (as well as
fresh fruit) on the spread to satisfy guests who prefer a more
conventional sweet. 

To complement the meal, one can also order Vietnamese beer. 

The food festival is also a promotion for Vietnam Airlines, which
currently flies twice weekly from Manila. Vietnam Airlines, through its
Manila general sales agent, Imex International Travel, is the major
sponsor of the food festival. 

The airline is also giving a roundtrip ticket for two to Vietnam with a
three-night/four-day stay at the Saigon Prince Hotel, inclusive of
breakfast. 
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