Ba'o VN: Mo'n a(n VN: Pho+? Bo`: Mo'n Qua` Ca(n Ba?n

[Dam Son <son@u.washington.edu>]

Title: [Mo'n a(n VN] Pho+? Bo`: Mo'n Qua` Ca(n Ba?n
Author: "proxy098@hotmail.com" <proxy098@hotmail.com>
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 1997 23:04:16 +0700


Pho+? Bo`: Mo'n Qua` Ca(n Ba?n

Sao la.i la` qua` ca(n ba?n?
Va^ng, chi'nh the^', ngu+o+`i ta co' the^? no'i ra(`ng ngu+o+`i Vie^.t
Nam co' the^? kho^ng a(n ba'nh bao, ba'nh be?, co' the^? kho^ng a(n
ma(`n tha('n hay mi`, co' the^? kho^ng a(n xo^i lu'a, nhu+ng cha('c
cha('n la` ai cu~ng dda~ tu+`ng a(n pho+?.
Re? la('m. Theo gia' tri. cu?a ddo^`ng ba.c ba^y gio+` na(m ddo^`ng
mo^.t ba't pho+?, ma` ba ddo^`ng cu~ng ddu+o+.c mo^.t ba't pho+? ngon
nhu+ thu+o+`ng.
Vi` the^', tu+` co^ ba'n ha`ng trong mo^.t cu+?a hie^.u buo^n cho dde^'n
mo^.t o^ng co^ng chu+'c, tu+` mo^.t ba` me^.nh phu. nha` co' cu+?a vo~ng
so+n son thie^'p va`ng, dde^'n mo^.t ngu+o+`i tho+. va('t mu~i kho^ng
ddu? nuo^i mie^.ng, ai cu~ng a(n ba't pho+?. Ngon mie^.ng thi` a(n hai,
rie^ng to^i thi` to^i dda~ tu+`ng tha^'y co' ngu+o+`i ddie^?m ta^m
buo^?i sa'ng to+'i ba ba't lie^`n, mo^~i ba't ta'm ddo^`ng, vi. chi hai
mu+o+i bo^'n, hai mu+o+i nha(m ddo^`ng ba.c.
Tha^.t the^', pho+? ddo^'i vo+'i mo^.t ha.ng ngu+o+`i, kho^ng co`n la`
mo^.t mo'n a(n nu+~a, ma` la` mo^.t thu+' nghie^.n, nhu+ nghie^.n
thuo^'c la`o, thuo^'c la', tra` tu+o+i, thuo^'c phie^.n.
Ngay tu+` dda(`ng xa, mu`i pho+? cu~ng dda~ co' mo^.t su+'c huye^?n bi' 
quye^'n ru~ ta nhu+ ma^y kho'i chu`a Hu+o+ng dda^?y bu+o+'c cha^n ta,
thu'c ba'ch ta pha?i tre`o le^n ddi?nh nu'i dde^? va`o chu`a trong ro^'i
la.i ra chu`a ngoa`i. Ta tie^'n la.i ga^`n mo^.t cu+?a ha`ng ba'n pho+?:
tha^.t la` ca~ mo^.t ba`i tri' ne^n tho+.
Qua la^`n cu+?a ki'nh ta dda~ tha^'y gi`? Mo^.t bo' ha`nh hoa xanh nhu+
la' ma., da(m qua? o+'t ddo? buo^.c va`o mo^.t ca'i da^y, va`i mie^'ng
thi.t bo` tu+o+i va` me^`m, chi'n co', ta'i co', su.n co', mo+~ ga^`u
co', ve` cu~ng co'... Ngu+o+`i ba'n ha`ng ddu+'ng tha'i ba'nh, tha'i
thi.t luo^n tay, thi?nh thoa?ng la.i mo+? na('p mo^.t ca'i thu`ng sa('t
ra dde^? la^'y nu+o+'c du`ng chan va`o ba't.  Mo^.t la`n kho'i to?a ra
kha('p gian ha`ng, bao phu? nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i ngo^`i a(n o+? chung quanh
trong mo^.t la`n su+o+ng mo?ng, mo+ ho^` nhu+ mo^.t bu+'c tranh Ta`u
ve^` nhu+~ng o^ng tie^n  ngo^.i dda'nh co+` o+? trong ru+`ng mu`a thu.
Tro^ng ma` the`m qua' ! Nha^'t la` ve^` mu`a re't, co' gio' ba^'c tho^?i
hiu hiu, ma` tha^'y ngu+o+`i ta a(n pho+? nhu+ the^', thi` chi'nh mi`nh
ddu+'ng o+? ngoa`i cu~ng tha^'y a^'m a'p ngon la`nh. Co' ai la.i ddu+`ng
va`o a(n cho ddu+o+.c.
a^'y va^.y ma` ngu+o+`i sa`nh a(n pho+?, ngu+o+`i a(n pho+? ky~ ca`ng
kho^ng the^? de^~ ti'nh, nha^'t te^` bu+o+'c va`o mo^.t cu+?a hie^.u
pho+? thu+' nha^'t na`o dde^? ma` a(n lie^`u a(n li~nh.
Bo+?i vi` nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i sa`nh a(n ddo', thu+o+`ng kho^ng tin gi` cho
la('m o+? nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? mo+? cu+?a ha`ng.  Nguu+`i ta ba?o ra(`ng
pha^`n nhie^`u nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? mo+? hie^.u nhu+ the^', nu+o+'c du`ng
kho^ng ddu+o+.c ngo.t, hoa(.c ngo.t la` ca'i ngo.t cu?a mi` chi'nh,
chu+' kho^ng pha?i la` ca'i ngo.t cu?a xu+o+ng bo`; a^'y la` chu+a no'i
ra(`ng la.i co`n cu+?a hie^.u pho+? qua' vu.ng ve^` muo^'n co' nu+o+'c
du`ng ngo.t la.i cho ddu+o+`ng va`o nu+~a. A(n pha`i mo^.t ba't pho+?
nhu+ the^', kho^ng nhu+~ng tie^'c tie^`n, ma` la.i co`n tha^'y phi'
pha.m ca? ca'i co^ng a(n, dde^'n sinh ra lo+.m gio.ng, bu+.c mi`nh la`
kha'c.
Vi` the^', ngu+o+`i a(n pho+? muo^'n cho tha^.t ddu'ng cung ca'ch, pha?i
tha(m do`, pha?i ddie^`u tra, pha?i thi nghie^.m ky~ ca`ng ro^`i mo+'i
a(n ma` mo^.t khi dda~ chi.u gio.ng ro^`i, ta co' the^? tin cha('c
ra(`ng ngu+o+`i ddo' se~ la` mo^.t ngu+o+`i kha'ch trung tha`nh vo+'i
ho+i hu+o+'ng cu?a mo^.t ngu+o+`i ye^u, cu~ng nhu+ mo^.t ngu+o+`i
cho^`ng me^ vo+. vi` ngu+o+`i vo+. dda~ co' ta`i la`m mo^.t hai mo'n
khe'o, a(n va`o ho+.p gio.ng.
* * * 

Chi'nh vi` le~ ddo', chu'ng ta dda~ tu+`ng tha^'y co' nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i
va^'t va? vi` a(n pho+?. Tru+o+'c kia, co`n tha'i bi`nh, ta dda~ tu+`ng
tha^'y co' buo^?i sa'ng, ha`ng tra(m ngu+o+`i chen chu'c kho^? so+? va`o
ca'i ngo~ con be^` ngang kho^ng qua' mo^.t thu+o+'c o+? pho^' Ha`ng
Khay, be^n ca.nh nha` Ba'c Si Nha hay xuo^'ng ta^.n dda(`ng sau cho+.
Ho^m, trong mo^.t ca'i qua'n la' to^`i ta`n dde^? thu+o+?ng thu+'c cho
ky` ddu+o+.c mo^.t hay hai ba't pho+? mo+'i ye^n tam.
Tho+`i ddo', no^?i tie^'ng co' anh pho+? Su+'t sa'ng la^.p ra mo'n pho+?
gio` (la^'y thi.t bo` qua^.n la.i nhu+ ca'i da(m bo^ng ro^`i tha'i mo?ng
tu+`ng khoanh nho? ddie^?m va`o vo+'i thi.t). Pho+? Nha` thu+o+ng Phu?
Doa~n a(n ddu+o+.c nhu+ng nu+o+'c ho+i nha.t; pho+? DDo^ng My~ o+? pho^'
Mo+'i a(n e^m, nhu+ng ta^?y gu+`ng ho+i qua' tay; pho+? Co^'ng Vo.ng,
ke'o xe, ngon, nhu+ng nu+o+'c du`ng ho+i ho^i; pho+? Mu~ DDo? o+?
dda(`ng sau mie^'u cho+. Ho^m vo^ thu+o+?ng vo^ pha.t, a(n kha', nhu+ng
chu+a co' gi` quye^'n ru~.
Co`n mo^.t anh pho+? nu+~a la` anh pho+? Ta`u Bay lu'c ddo' cu~ng no^?i
tie^'ng la('m; sa'ng sa'ng, ngu+o+`i ta ddu+'ng dda^`y ca~ ra o+? nga~
ba dda^`u Ha`m Long, xe^' cu+?a So+? Hu+u Bo^?ng dde^? ma` tranh nhau
a(n, nhu+ the^? lu'c mo+'i ho^`i cu+, ngu+o+`i ta tranh nhau ddu+'ng
li~nh "bo^ng" su+~a, bo^ng va?i va^.y. Thi.t me^`m, nu+o+'c cu~ng dda~
ngo.t, nhu+ng tha^.t ra thi` chu+a co' the^? go.i la` tra'c tuye^.t.
Pha?i ddo+.i dde^'n lu'c ho^`i cu+ ve^`, ta mo+'i tha^'y, phong tra`o
pho+? tie^'n nhanh va` tie^'n ma.nh nhu+ the^' na`o. Ho.a hoa(`n ve^`
phi'a cho+. DDuo^?i mo+'i tha^'y mo^.t hai ha`ng pho+? xe. Co`n thi` la`
pho+? ga'nh va` pho+? hie^.u.
Mo^.t gian nha` ddo^? ca(ng mo^.t ca'i ba.t, ba('c va`i ca'i ghe^';
mo^.t co^?ng ddi`nh cha('n mo^.t ta^'m phe^n tre; mo^.t ca'i ngo~, che
ma^'y ta^'m to^n va` ke^ mo^.t hai ta^'m ghe^' da`i; the^' la` dda~
tha`nh ra mo^.t cu+?a ha`ng ro^`i, ngo^`i a(n ddu+o+.c, ma` ra^'t co'
the^? la.i ngon la`nh la` kha'c.
Bo+?i vi` ta pha?i bie^'t ra(`ng, ngu+o+`i ddI a(n pho+? - no'i cho
tha^.t nghi~a chu+~ a(n pho+? - kho^ng ky` qua?n la('m dde^'n su+. ba`i
tri' cu?a cho^? a(n, cu~ng nhu+ ngu+o+`i a(n thuo^'c phie^.n, nghie^.n
tie^.m, kho^ng cu+' la` pha?i na(`m hu't o+? mo^.t cho^? sang tro.ng co'
do.c dde.p, dde`n pha le^ va` tie^m mo'c la`m ba(`ng ba.c.
Nu+`u ta tu+`ng tha^'y co' nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i gia`u co', nghie^.n thuo^`c
phie^.n, chui va`o nhu+~ng ca^`u ga'c ba^?n thi?u, ho^i ha'm dde^? a(n
thuo^'c mo+'i tha^'y "dda~ the`m". Thi` ta la.i cu~ng tha^'y bie^'t bao
nhie^u ngu+o+`i sang tro.ng la^`n mo` to+'i cho^~ ra^'t to^`i ta`n dde^?
a(n cho ddu+o+.c mo^.t hai ba't pho+?.
DDo' la` do ngu+o+`i a(n pho+? sa`nh, ha^`u he^'t, chi? chu? ta^m dde^'n
ca'i ddie^?m chi'nh la` pho+? ma` tho^i, chu+' kho^ng quan ta^m dde^'n
ngoa.i ca?nh la`m gi`. DDie^`u ca^`n thie^'t la` ba'nh pha?i mo?ng va`
de?o, thi.t me^`m, va` nha^'t la` nu+o+'c du`ng pha?i ngo.t, ngo.t
kie^?u cha^n tha^.t, nghi~a la` ngo.t vi` nhie^`u xu+o+ng, ta^?y vu+`a
va(.n kho^ng no^`ng, ma` la.i tra vu+`a ma('m muo^'i, kho^ng ma(.n qua'
va` kho^ng nha.t qua'.
DDa.t ddu+o+.c ma^'y ddie^?m ddo' tu+'c la` pho+? a(n ddu+o+.c dda^'y.
Va`o kho?ang 1948 - 1949, pho+? Phu' Xua^n o+? pho^' Rixo^ a(n ddu+o+.c;
ddo^`ng tho+`i co' pho+? DDo^ng My~, pho+? Tu+', pho+? Ta`u Bay (ba^y
gio+` dda~ do.n tha`nh cu+?a hie^.u) va` mo^.t i't ha`ng nu+~a ma` ta
kho^ng ke^? he^'t. Nhu+ng pho+? na`o hi`nh nhu+ cu~ng chi? co' mo^.t
tho+`i. Vi` the^', nhie^`u hie^.u va` nhie^`u ga'nh pho+? co' tie^'ng
ba^y gio+` na(`m ngu? o+? tre^n danh vo.ng. Ngu+o+`i ta nghie^.m tha^'y
ddie^`u na`y: pha^`n nhie^`u ha`ng pho+? lu'c co`n ga'nh thi` ngon, ma`
do.n tha`nh cu+?a ha`ng ro^`i thi` ke'm.
Co' pha?i ddo' la` vi` che^?nh ma?ng trong su+. co^' ga('ng, hay la` vi`
tha`nh kie^'n cu?a ngu+o+`i a(n?
Duy ta co' the^? cha('c ddu+o+.c ddie^?m na`y la` mo^.t ha`ng pho+?
ddu+o+ng la`m ngon ma` su't ke'm ddi thi` chi? trong mo^.t tua^`n le^?,
nu+?a tha'ng, ca? Ha` No^.i dde^`u bie^'t ro~;  tra'i la.i, mo+'i co'
mo^.t ha`ng pho+? na`o la`m a(n ddu+o+.c thi` cu~ng chi? da(m bu+~a,
mu+o+i nga`y la` ca? Ha` No^.i cu`ng ddo^? xo^ ngay dde^'n dde^? ma`
"ne^'m thu+?", kho^ng ca^`n pha?i qua?ng ca'o le^n nha^.t ba'o la^'y
mo^.t do`ng !
A^u ddo' cu~ng la` mo^.t ddie^?m dda(.c bie^.t trong thu+o+ng tru+o+`ng
va^.y.
Nhie^`u ngu+o+`i cho ra(`ng so+? di~ the^' a^'y la` vi` mo'n pho+?
ddu+'ng cao ho+n mo.i su+. lu+`a bi.p cu?a tho+`i na`y: pho+? ngon la`
ngon, chu+' kho^ng the^? lu+`a do^'i ngu+o+`i ta ddu+o+.c.
Ma` lu+`a do^'i la`m sao?
Mo^.t ngu+o+`i la^`m, nhu+ng kho^ng the^? mo^.t nghi`n ngu+o+`i la^`m
ddu+o+.c. Ngu+o+`i ta a(n pho+? co' pha?i la` tie^u ho'a ro^`i ma` tho^i
dda^u? Kho^ng.
Cu~ng nhu+ ddo.c mo^.t a'ng va(n hay, ga^'p sa'ch la.i ma` co`n du+ a^m
pha?ng pha^'t, co`n suy nghi~, co`n tra^`m ma(.c, ngu+o+`i ta a(n pho+?
xong cu~ng dda('n ddo nga^~m nghi~, ro^`i co' khi ddem tha?o lua^.n
vo+'i anh em, nha^'t la` ca'c co^ng chu+'c va` ca'c tay thu+o+ng gia
ro^~i thi` gio+` thi` la.i lua^.n ba`n ky~ la('m.
Thi` ra pho+? kho^ng nhu+~ng la` mo^.t mo'n a(n, mo^.t su+. thi'ch thu'
cho khu+'u gia'c, ma` co`n la` ca? mo^.t va^'n dde^`; va^'n dde^` a(n
pho+?, va^'n dde^` la`m pho+?.
Muo^'n tha^'u trie^.t hai phu+o+ng die^.n cu?a va^'n dde^`, chu'ng ta
ca^`n pha?i bo? ma^'y tie^'ng ddo^`ng ho^`le^n tru+o+'c cu+?a tru+o+`ng
Ha`ng Than dde^? quan sa't mo^.t ha`ng pho+? no^?i danh nha^'t ba^'y
gio+`: pho+? Tra'ng - ma` co' ngu+o+`i ye^u me^'n qua' mu+.c dda~ go.i
(cha(?ng bie^'t ddu`a hay thu+.c) la` "vua pho+? 1952".
Tra'ng la` te^n o^ng "vua pho+?" na`y. Nhu+ng ngu+o+`i ta kho^ng go.i
anh ba(`ng te^n, cu~ng nhu+ ngu+o+`i ta i't khi go.i nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+?
ngon ba(`ng te^n cu?a ngu+o+`i ba'n, ma` go.i ba(`ng te^n pho^' ngu+o+`i
ha`ng pho+? ddu+'ng ba'n (nhu+ pho+? Tra'ng thi` go.i la` pho? Ha`ng
Than, pho+? Su+'t thi` go.i la` pho+? Ha`ng Khay), hoa(.c go.i ba(`ng
su+o+'t hie^.u (nhu+ pho+? Lu`n, pho+? Cu.t, pho+? Mu~ DDo?) hoa(.c go.i
ba(`ng dda(.c ddie^?m na`o ddo' cu?a ca'i cu+?a ha`ng (pho+? xe dda^`u
Ha`ng Ca'), hoa(.c ba(`ng te^n tu+. (nhu+ pho+? DDo^ng My~, pho+? Ta^n
Ta^n, Phu' Xua^n) va` co' khi la.i go.i ba(`ng mo^.t phu` hie^.u (nhu+
pho+? Ta`u Bay, Ta`u Bo`)...
Va^.y thi` o^ng vua a^'y te^n la` Tra'ng, nhu+ng ngu+o+`i ta va^~n go.i
la` pho+? Ha`ng Than.
Hi`nh thu`, vo'c da'ng cu?a anh ta tro^ng tha^.t na?n. Ngu+o+`i ga^`y,
mo^i ho+i thu+o+~i, ma('t thi` lo+` ddo+` nhu+ ngu+o+`i che^'t ro^`i.
Ba^'t cu+' lu'c na`o, nhi`n tha^'y anh, o^ng cu~ng ca?m gia'c ddo' la`
mo^.t ngu+o+`i vu+`a mo+'i tha(ng ddo^`ng, ddu+o+ng so^'ng trong mo^.t
ca'i the^' gio+'i u minh; the^m va`o ddo', la.i bi.t o+? tre^n dda^`u
mo^.t ca'i mu`i soa tra('ng, tro^ng mo+'i la.i ca`ng... "thie^?u so^'".
Ngu+o+`i dda^u ma` la.i "ly` xy`" dde^'n the^' la` cu`ng ! Ha`ng na(m
ba?y chu.c ngu+o+`i, ha`ng ta'm chi'n chu.c ngu+o+`i ddu+'ng vo`ng la^'y
ga'nh ha`ng cu?a anh ta, cha^.t ca? mo^.t ca'i he` ddu+o+`ng dde^? mua
a(n, dde^? "ddo`i" a(n - pha?i, ho. ddo`i a(n tha^.t - ma` anh ta cu+'
la`m nhu+ the^? kho^ng tro^ng tha^'y gi`, kho^ng nghe tha^'y gi`.
Anh ta cu+' tha?n nhie^n, tha'i thi.t, do^'c nu+o+'c ma('m, ru+o+'i
nu+o+'c du`ng - ai ddo+.i la^u, ma(.c; ai pha't ba(?n le^n; ma(.c; ma`
ai chu+?i, anh ta cu~ng ma(.c.
DDi o^to^ dde^'n a(n cu~ng the^'; ma(.c a'o va?i dde^'n a(n cu~ng the^';
ca'c ba` ca'c co^ dde.p dda'o dde^?, dde^'n a(n cu~ng the^'. Anh ta
kho^ng dda(.c bie^.t rie^ng vo+'i ai - ke^? cu~ng da^n chu? dda^'y ! -
nhu+ng co' nhie^`u ba` tu+'c vi` anh ta kho^ng ni.nh dda^`m.
Ghe't qua'. The^' thi` thue^ mo^.t ca'i nha` ro^.ng, mu+o+.n the^m
ngu+o+`i la`m co' pha?i lo+.i kho^ng? Hay la` ddie^`u ddi`nh vo+'i
xu+o+?ng cu?i ngu+o+`i ta dde^? cho mo^.t gian, ba`y ma^'y ca'i ba`n,
ca'i ghe^', co' ngu+o+`i tro^ng nom, ti'nh tie^`n ca^?n tha^.n co' pha?i
kho^ng ma^'t ma't kho^ng?
Ma(.c cho o^ng cu+' no'i, anh pho+? Tra'ng kho^ng tra? lo+`i - nha^'t
la` kho^ng bao gio+` cu+o+`i.
Tro^ng ma` lo^.n ruo^.t, muo^'n ta't cho mo^.t ca'i. Che^'t mo^.t no^~i
ghe't ngu+o+`i thi` the^', nhu+ng dde^'n ca'i pho+? cu?a anh ta muo^'n
ghe't, kho^ng ta`i na`o ghe't ddu+o+.c.
Co' ai chen chu'c va^`t va?, ho` he't ddu+'t ho+i ddu+o+.c mo^.t ba't
pho+? cu?a anh, ma` la.i chu+a a(n ngay, co`n du+`ng la.i mo^.t phu't
dde^? nga('m nghi'a, pha^n ta'ch ba't pho+? ddo' ra the^' na`o kho^ng?
Tha^.t la` ky` la. ! Ba'nh pho+? kho^ng tra('ng va` de?o ho+n, thi.t
thi` cu~ng cha(~ng nhie^`u, nhu+ng ma` la`m sao ngon la., ngon lu`ng
dde^'n the^'? Chu+a a(n dda~ bie^'t la` ngon ro^`i.
Cu+' nhi`n ba't pho+? kho^ng tho^i cu~ng thu'. Mo^.t nhu'm ba'nh pho+?;
mo^.t i't ha`nh hoa tha'i nho?, ddie^?m ma^'y co.ng rau tho+m xanh
bie^ng bie^'c; ma^'y nha't gu+`ng ma`u va`ng tha'i mu+o+'t nhu+ to+;
ma^'y mie^'ng o+'t mo?ng vu+`a ddo? ma`u hoa hie^n vu+`a ddo? sa^?m nhu+
hoa lu+.u... ba bo^'n thu' ma`u sa('c ddo' cho ta ca'i ca?m gia'c
ddu+o+.c nga('m mo^.t bu+'c ho.a la^.p the^? cu?a mo^.t ho.a si~ trong
pha'i va(n nghe^. tie^`n tie^'n du`ng ma`u sa('c ho+i lo^' li?nh, ho+i
ba.o qua', nhu+ng ma` dde.p ma('t.
Tre^n ta^'t ca? ma^'y thu+' ddo', ngu+o+`i ba'n ha`ng ba^y gio+` mo+'i
tha'i thi.t bo` tu+`ng mie^'ng ba`y le^n.
DDe^'n dda^y thi` Tra'ng va^~n kho^ng no'i na(ng gi`, nhu+ng to? ra
bie^'t chie^`u y' kha'ch ha`ng mo^.t ca'ch dda'ng ye^u.
O^ng muo^'n xo+i cho^~ thi.t na`o cu~ng co': ve`, su.n na.m, mo+~ ga^`u,
mo+~ la^.t, vu+`a mo+~ vu+`a na.c, vu+`a na.m vu+`a su.n, thu+' gi` anh
ta cu~ng cho.n cho ky` ddu+o+.c vu+`a y' o^ng - mie^~n la` o^ng dde^'n
xo+i pho+? ddu+`ng muo^.n qua'.
A(n pho+? chi'n thi` nhu+ the^' la` xong, chi? co`n pha?i la^'y nu+o+'c
du`ng va` ra('c mo^.t chu't ha.t tie^u, hay va('t ma^'y gio.t chanh
(ne^'u kho^ng la` ti' da^'m).
Ne^'u o^ng la.i thi'ch vu+`a ta'i vu+`a chi'n thi` tru+o+'c khi ru+o+'i
nu+o+'c du`ng, anh Tra'ng vo^'c mo^.t i't thi.t ta'i dda~ tha'i sa(~n
dde^? o+? trong mo^.t ca'i ba't o^to^, ba`y le^n tre^n cu`ng ro^`i mo+'i
ru+o+'i nu+o+'c du`ng sau.
The^' la` "ba`i tho pho+?" vie^'t xong ro^`i dda^'y, mo+`i o^ng ca^`m
ddu~a. Hu'p mo^.t ti' nu+o+'c tho^i, ddu+`ng nhie^`u nhe' ! O^ng dda~
tha^'y ti?nh ngu+o+`i ro^`i pha?i kho^ng?
Nu+o+'c du`ng no'ng la('m dda^'y, no'ng bo?ng ra^?y le^n, nhu+ng a(n
pho+? co' nhu+ the^' mo+'i ngon. Thi.t thi` me^`m, ba'nh thi` de?o,
thi?nh thoa?ng la.i tha^'y cay ca'i cay cu?a gu+`ng, cay ca'i cay cu?a
ha.t tie^u, cay ca'i cay cu?a o+'t; thi?nh thoa?ng la.i tha^'y tho+m
nhe` nhe. ca'i tho+m cu?a ha`nh hoa, tho+m ha(ng ha('c ca'i tho+m cu?a
rau tho+m, tho+m di`i di.u ca'i tho+m cu?a thi.t bo` tu+o+i va` me^`m...
ro^`i thi` ho`a ho+.p ta^'t ca?  nhu+~ng vi. ddo' la.i, nu+o+'c du`ng
ngo.t cu+' lu+` ddi, ngo.t mo^.t ca'ch hie^`n la`nh, e^m di.u, ngo.t
mo^.t ca'ch tha`nh thu+.c, thie^n nhie^n, kho^ng co' cha^'t gi` la` ho'a
ho.c... kho^ng, o^ng pha?i thu' nha^.n vo+'i to^i ddi: "Co' pha?i a(n
mo^.t ba't pho+? nhu+ the^' thi` khoan khoa'i qua', pha?i kho^ng?".
Qua? va^.y, a(n mo^.t ba't pho+? nhu+ the^', pha?i no'i ra(`ng co' the^?
"la^m li" ho+n la` nghe tha^'y mo^.t ca^u no'i hu+~u ti`nh cu?a ngu+o+`i
ye^u, a(n mo^.t ba't pho+? nhu+ the^', thu' co' the^? vi' nhu+ sau mo^.t
tho+`i gian xa ca'ch, ddu+o+.c nga~ va`o trong vo`ng tay mo^.t ngu+o+`i
vo+. dde.p ma` la.i dda ti`nh va^.y !
y' ha(?n cu~ng co' ngu+o+`i ca?m gia'c nhu+ to^i, cho ne^n bie^'t bao
nhie^u ba^.n ddu+'ng cho+` la`m pho+?, to^i dda~ tha^'y nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i
dda`n ba`, dda`n o^ng, ngu+o+`i gia`, tre? con, bu+ng la^'y ba't pho+?
ma` ddo^i ma('t sa'ng ngo+`i le^n. Ngu+o+`i ta cho+` la^u thi` bu+.c
tha^.t dda^'y, nhu+ng cu~ng va^~n cu+' cho+` cho ddu+o+.c, tuo^`ng nhu+
dda~ dde^'n ma` kho^ng ddu+o+.c a(n thi` chi'nh mi`nh la.i pha?i to^.i
vo+'i mi`nh, vi` dda~ dda'nh lu+`a tha^`n kha^?u - hay no'i mo^.t ca'ch
kha'c, dde^'n dda^'y ma` kho^ng co^' a(n cho ky` ddu+.o+c thi` ro^`i se~
ho^'i ha^.n nhu+ mo^.t ngu+o+`i ti`nh dda~ dde^? lo+? co+ ho^.i chie^'m
ngu+o+`i ye^u... 
Nhu+ng ma` du` thie^`t tha dde^'n bu+.c na`o, o^ng cu~ng ra^'t co' the^?
mo^.t ho^m na`o ddo' bi. ra ve^` ma` kho^ng ddu+o+.c a(n - du` mo^.t
ba't tho^i. a^'y la` vi` chi? ddo^. chi'n gio+`, chi'n ru+o+~i thi`
thu+o+`ng la` pho+? Ha`ng Than dda~ he^'t.
Cho ne^n nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i tha^.t nghie^.n pho+? thuo+`ng va^~n ru? nhau
ddi a(n tha^.t so+'m. Theo lo+`i ho. no'i la.i, muo^'n thu+o+?ng thu+'c
ho`an toa`n hu+o+ng vi. pho+? Ha`ng Than, ca^`n pha?i da^.y ddi a(n tu+`
sa'u gio+`, va`o lu'c tro+`i chu+a sa'ng ha(?n. Lu'c ddo', tro+`i mo+`
mo+` chu+a ro~ ma(.t ngu+o+`i, pho^' xa' ho.a hoa(`n mo+'i co' da(m ba
ngu+o+`i qua la.i. Anh ddi a(n se~ tha^'y mo^.t ca'i thu' kha'c la.
nu+~a la` a(n ngon trong ti.ch mi.ch, a(n ngon trong kho^ng khi' trong
la`nh.
Kha'ch chu+a co' ai, anh muo^'n a(n kie^?u gi`, muo^'n xo+i cho^? thi.t
na`o, muo^'n du`ng nu+o+'c thi.t bo` tu+o+i ru+o+'i le^n ba'nh, muo^'n
co' mo+~ la^.t, mo+~ ga^`u, muo^'n nu+o+'c trong hay be'o, tha ho^` ma`
ha.ch ! Anh ddu+o+.c nhu+ y' va` anh se~ vu+`a a(n vu+`a nhi`n ma^'y
thanh cu?i ta. o+? trong lo` ke^u la'ch ta'ch va` ba('n ra ngoa`i tro+`i
sa('c su+~a nhu+~ng hoa lu+?a vi ti ma`u ddo? tu+o+i.
* * *

Du` sao, ta cu~ng pha?i nha^.n ra(`ng dde^'n va^'n dde^` a(n pho+? thi`
ngu+o+`i Vie^.t Nam qua? la` kho' ti'nh la. lu`ng.
Mo^.t ngu+o+`i ba.n dda~ tu+`ng ne^'m ddu? hu+o+ng vi. cu?a ta^'t ca?
nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? danh tie^'ng o+? Ha` tha`nh khoa?ng ba mu+o+i na(m
tro+? la.i dda^y, mo^.t ho^m, cho to^i bie^'t ra(`ng: "DDe^'n ca'i na(m
1952 na`y, pho+? hi`nh nhu+ dda~ tie^'n to+'i cho^? tuye^.t ddi?nh cu?a
no' ro^`i, cu~nh nhu+ mo^.t ba?n nha.c tuye^.t ky?... kho^ng che^ va`o
dda^u ddu+o+.c, nghi~a la` kho^ng the^? the^m mo^.t mo'n gi` hay gia?m
mo^.t mo'n gi`".
Theo anh ta thi` pho+? ma` cho magi va`o thi` ra^'t ho?ng ma` qua^'y
"la.p chie^'u chu+o+ng" va`o cu~ng la.i do+? vo^ cu`ng. Pha?i la` hoa`n
toa`n gia vi. Vie^.t Nam mo+'i ddu+o+.c: ho^` tie^u Ba('c, chanh o+'t,
ha`nh hoa, rau tho+m hay la` mo^.t ti' mu`i, the^' tho^i, ngoa.i gia?
ca^'m he^'t, kho^ng co' thi` la` tu.c dda^'y !
Co' ngu+o+`i ke^? chuye^.n ra(`ngtru+o+'c dda^y mu+o+`i la(m, hai mu+o+i
na(m, dda~ co' mo^.t ha`ng pho+? o+? pho^' Mo+'i ti`m lo^'i ca?i ca'ch
pho+?, cu~ng nhu+ Na(m Cha^u, Phu`ng Ha' da.o na`o ca?i ca'ch ca?i
lu+o+ng Nam ky`, tung ra sa^n kha^'u nhu+~ng ba?n "De ddo+ da` mu'a".
Ho. cho ma` da^`u va`  dda^.u phu. va`o pho+?, nhu+ng co^' nhie^n la`
tha^'t ba.i.
Sau co`n co' ngu+o+`i la`m pho+? cho ca` ro^'t tha'i nho?, hay la`m
pho+? a(n dde^.m vo+'i ddu ddu? nga^m da^'m hoa(.c la` ca^`n Ta^y,
nhu+ng tha?y tha?y dde^`u ho?ng be't vi` ca'i ba?n nha.c soa.n bu+`a
ba~i nhu+ the^', no' kho^ng ... e^m gio.ng chu't na`o.
Mo^.t chu' kha'ch o+? cho+. Ho^m, chuye^n ve^` lo^'i "pho+? nhu+`",
ba'nh thi` tha'i to, thi.t thi` tha'i con co+` ha^`m chi'n, nu+o+'c cho
hu'ng li`u, mo^.t da.o cu~ng dda~ la`m cho ngu+o+`i no'i to+'i; song
nhu+~ng ngu+o+`i sa`nh pho+? chi? du`ng mo^.t va`i la^`n tho^i, vi`
kho^ng nhu+~ng dda~ kho^ng co' vi. pho+?, thi.t a(n la.i ba~, ma`
nu+o+'c thi` ddu.c ma` nga^'y qua'.
Mo^.t ha`ng pho+? ngon la` mo^.t ha`ng pho+? a(n mo^.t ba't, la.i muo^'n
a(n hai va` ne^'u co`n su+'c a(n nu+~a thi` pha?i a(n ba kho^ng tha^'y
cha'n.
Ga(.p pha?i nga`y ta se mi`nh, ngu+?i mu`i thi.t tha^'y so+., ha`ng
pho+? ngon va^~n co' the^? la`m cho ta a(n ngon mie^.ng vo+'i mo^.t ba't
pho+? chay, chi? co' ba'nh va` nu+o+'c tho^i. La`m nhu+ the^' ma` ngon,
the^' mo+'i la` ngon dda^'y.
Mo^.t ba't pho+? vu+`a ta'i vu+`a chi'n ngon, chu+a ddu? dde^? ddi.nh
gia' tri. ha`ng pho+? ddu+o+.c; muo^'n bie^'t cha^n gia' tri. cu?a no',
theo lo+`i ngu+o+`i bie^'t a(n pho+?, pha?i la` thu+' pho+? chi'n kho^ng
tho^i, pho+? chi'n ma` ngon thi` mo+'i tha^.t la` ngon dda^'y.
Thu+.c ra, ddie^`u quan he^. trong mo^.t ba't pho+? la` ca'i ba'nh,
nhu+ng thu+' nhu+'t, nhu+ tre^n kia dda~ no'i, pha?i ca^`n co' nu+o+'c
du`ng tha^.t ngo.t. Bi' quye^'t la` o+? cho^~ ddo'. Va` ta^'t ca?
nhu+~ng ha`ng pho+? ngon dde^`u giu+~ ca'i bi' quye^'t a^'y ra^'t ki'n
dda'o, y nhu+ ngu+o+`i Ta`u giu+~ cu?a, vi` the^' cho ne^n trong la`ng
a(n pho+?, va^'n dde^` nu+o+'c va^~n la` mo^.t va^'n dde^` then cho^'t
cho ngu+o+`i ta tranh lua^.n.
Ha^`u he^'t ngu+o+`i ta dde^`unha^.n tha^'y ra(`ng muo^'n co' mo^.t
no^`i nu+o+'c du`ng ngon, ca^`n pha?i pha mi` chi'nh. Nhu+ng chu+a
cha('c the^' dda~ hoa`n toa`n la` pha?i.
Thuye^'t cho ddu+o+`ng nha^'t ddi.nh la` bi. loa.i ro^`i. Co' ngu+o+`i
cho ra(`ng pha?i co' nhie^`u dda^`u ca' mu+.c bo? va`o; co' ngu+o+`i
chu? tru+o+ng ca^`n pha?i co' thu+' nu+o+'c ma('m to^'t; la.i co'
ngu+o+`i qua? quye^`t vo+'i to^i ra(`ng muo^'n co' nu+o+'c du`ng ngo.t,
kho^ng the^? thoa't ddu+o+.c mo'n cua ddo^`ng - cua ddo^`ng gia~ nho?
ra, lo.c la^'y nu+o+'c, cho va`o ha^`m vo+'i nhie^`u xu+o+ng o^'ng,
nhu+ng pha?i chu' y' ta^?y cho tha^.t khe'o, ma` cu~ng ddu+`ng ninh ky?
qua' so+. no^`ng.
DDe^'n ba^y gio+`, ai dda~ tha^.t bie^'t ca'i bi' ma^.t a^'y chu+a?
Rie^ng to^i, to^i cu~ng dda~ ti`m to`i suy nghi~ ra^'t ca^?n tha^.n
mo^~i khi tri.nh tro.ng na^ng mo^.t ba't pho+? le^n a(n, , nhu+ng thu'
thu+.c, to^i va^~n chu+a bie^'t ra(`ng trong ta^'t ca? nhu+~ng "gia?
thuye^'t" ve^` "phu+o+ng pha'p la`m nu+o+'c du`ng pho+?" ngu+o+`i ta
ke^? ra ddo', gia? thuye^'t na`o la` ddu'ng.
 
Ke^'t cu.c, to^i dda~ ga.t bo? ta^'t ca? nhu+~ng su+. ba(n khoa(n ddo'
sang mo^.t be^n va` kho^ng buo^`n nghi~ nu+~a, vi` to^i tha^'y ra(`ng
a(n mo^.t mie^'ng pho+?, hu'p mo^.t ti' nu+o+'c du`ng ngon thi?nh
thoa?ng ddie^?m mo^.t la' tho+m ha(ng nga't ma` kho^ng bie^'t ta.i sao
pho+? la.i ngon nhu+ the^' thi` co' pha^`n hu+'ng thu' ho+n la` mi`nh
bie^'t ro~ ra`ng qua' ca'i bi' quye^'t ngon cu?a pho+?.

Vu~ Ba(`ng.